Thursday, December 24, 2009

CR-712 Have Security Code?

Finally the 240 stereo set arrived (another product of eBay, again). It was stamped as CR-712; I did opened up the set to look-up for the diode setup but it seems different from CR-702. So I am not so sure if the code calculator for CR-702 could be used for CR-712?

Looking forward to install the unit in the 940 and see if it request for code. Will update you guys!

p/s - does anybody know if CR-712 have security code or not? appreciate your info.. do visit my new home site ( as well!

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Classic, Nice, Cheap

Hi all. Just want to share of my rceent eBay transaction & how eBay might help us with the old Volvos. The courtesy handles on the 240 had turned yellowish, the nut cap had become brittle and dropped off; it doesn't look nice in short. I was planning to replace only the nut cover but then realized it comes per set with the handle itself.

Went over to my favorite Volvo parts dealer in Kuala Lumpur and asked them if they have any stock of the courtesy handle; none. Yeah, as expected nobody buys them, its either their handles are still in mint condition or its just an old car so why bother on the handle? But they offer to order them if I really want the handles and quoted around RM200 per piece, thats mean total of RM600 to get the three handles replaced. Then I just say, never mind.

Went home and share the story with my dad. He said "pergilah tengok dalam Internet" (why don't you go and have a look on the net). Yeah, surfed eBay and I found the handles! To cut it short, succesfully bought 3 pieces of them with total price of RM150 only including courier charges! The seller who is from USA told me that they are used ones, but when the parcel arrived, they look-like a brand new handle! Perhaps USA climate is too gentle to plastics as compared to Malaysia hot tropical climate.

Changed them, now it look nice. A classic car, with nice handle, and cheap!

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Volvo Radio Code

Browsing through sites, finally I found this website. I don't know if this is illegal but; who cares of this more than a decade car stereo! We often listen people who bought second hand unit of Volvo original radio unit will not be able to use them just because of difficulties in getting the radio code (its just too old and owners lost the number).

If you are among them, come and read this wonderful page. Try surfing around and you'll find Volvo Radio Code calculator. What you need to do is to follow the instruction on the website, read your diode arrangement and key-in the diode arrangement to your code calculator software; done!


Friday, October 30, 2009

Now Let's Finally Fix the Odometer (cont.)

OK, let us continue from the last post. Now that we have remove the instrument cluster safely, bring it in-door, and;


B) Fix the gear!

1) Unscrew 7 philips screw as marked on above picture. After that, you could lift the board up from the black housing. DO THIS CAREFULLY TO AVOID DAMAGE TO NEEDLES!

2) Position the board vertically. NEVER LET THE NEEDLE SURFACE DOWN/TOUCH ANYTHING. Unscrew 4 philips screw as above picture. This will enable us to take-out the speedometer/odometer assy;

3) Lift out the speedometer by putting your hands on the speedo plate and lift it out horizontally, AGAIN SLOWLY;

4) You will see this motor attached on the backside of the speedo plate. Unscrew these 2 flat type screws; after that you'll be able to lift out the brown circuit board. JUST LIFT IT OUT, DON'T DISCONNECT IT. This is enough to expose inside gears;

5) From above picture (credit to Eric's), you'll find that for odometer, there are 2 main gears; a small and a big gear. More often than not, the smaller gear is always the culprit (with missing teeth). Inspect them and replace whichever necessary.

I did changed the small gear in 2004 with a local-machined gears and it works fine still after 5 years. Just recently I found the bigger gear is the culprit. Changed it, reinstall back (reinstallation is just reverse of removal) and yeah now the odometer keep on running!

Happy trying & Good Luck!

p/s - DIY at your own risk.. this article is for info sharing and should not be liable for any 'incidents' encountered during your DIY session. good day all!

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Let's Fix the Odometer!

Hi guys, this post will be a long one with pictures and instructions. The odometer stopped working; whereas I have changed one of the gear last 4 years until it stopped again now. Let's go straight from how to remove the cluster, open it, and replace the gear which always the culprit.

But before that, you might want to read my earlier post on check you should do if your odometer/speedometer does not function before opening-out the instrument cluster. OK straight to the steps;


A) Removing The Instrument Cluster

1)Remove the dimmer adjuster knob gently, it might be a little tight;

2) Likewise, remove the headlamp switch knob;

3) Gently slide off (towards you) the trim;

4) Pry off the black trim (behind the knobs);

5) Detach the black panel, just let it hang out, no need to detach the wires;

6) Pry off black trim around the clock;

7) Pry off the black trim below clock panel;

8) At RHS of the cluster, unscrew 2x Philips screws, and remove the black metal panel;

9) Likewise, at LHS of the instrument cluster, unscrew 2x Philips screws;

10) Then you are ready to slide-off the instrument cluster; don't be clumsy/rushing, take it off front 'front', using both hand on RHS & LHS of the cluster, and pull it forward gently; You may want to detach horn cover on the steering column (CAR WITH AIRBAG REQUIRE ADDITIONAL STEPS TO DETACH STEERING COVER);

11) From back end of the cluster, remove wires as mentioned in above pictures; again be gentle, it might be hard to detach especially for the first time; then you are ready to bring the cluster indoor...

to be continued...

Monday, September 21, 2009

Squeaky Steering Cover Plastics

Ever wonder how to fix it? Yeah, sometimes it is quite annoying to hear those steering cover plastics squeaks. Some says; for this 20 years old car, perhaps the plastic had warped, not in it's best shape already so squeaks here and there should be normal. But it can be fix!

Very simple, there are 6 screws located around the cover. Just tightened them up with hand-tight torque; DO NOT OVER-TIGHT, THE PLASTIC WILL BROKE! If in case it had been already tight, untight a little bit and re-tighten them.

These are allen-screws. Please use appropriate allen-key to tightened them.

The aboves are philips type screws; located to the sides. You can use normal philips screw driver for them.

These screws are also philips. This is under the steering column. I was surprised to see how loose they are just now.

Then go for a test drive. Yeah! The squeaks had almost gone! Good Day :)

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

RON95 for 240?

With recent government introduction of RON95 petrol, most petrol station diminished their RON97 products; and drivers are mostly left with RON95 option. There's a lot of argument on this RON issue, some says its a low-grade fuel, some says it is not compatible with modern cars, etc.

What is RON? RON stands for Research Octane Number. Fuels are chains of hydrocarbon (CH chains). The more stable the chain are, the more strong chemical bonding occurs between them. This will result in more output power when being burnt. Higher bond are indicated by higher RON. Contra to that, lower RON indicates that the chemical bonding of the hydrocarbons chain are weaker. They might get burnt pre-maturely; for instance, upon compression in the engine, and when spark plug is about to on, it gets combusted already. This resulted in two things; pre-mature burnt causes 'knocking' while weaker bond gives lower output power.

How to know whether you engine are design to accept which RON? Your owner's manual is always the best resource. For this Volvo 240, it is stated that minimum RON is RON87 while the most recommended fuel is RON91 and higher. Thus theoretically RON95 should be no problem. I also had refuel RON95 twice; and no problem at all, did not notice any lacking though. Just the same performance. Perhaps 97 and 95 are not differ so much that will produce obvious performance difference.

So, RON95 is OK for this old brick!

Sunday, August 23, 2009

DIY That Have Re-Failed....

I did some DIY on my car, some are after readings and research on the net, and some are just my trial & error basis. And what had failed back?

Odometer Stopped Working Again

My odometer stopped working in 1999. However then, the best solution is just to change the whole instrument cluster; which my father says no need (waste a lot of money just to get odometer function). Up until one day I found odometer repair manual online, I discussed it with my father and decided to fix it by DIY! Did it on 2005, it runs perfect since then; but after 4 years stopped again. Perhaps due to 'cheap' plastic gear being used as replacement.

Will get the instrument cluster opened and fixed; this time with exclusive post to of course!

Windscreen Leaks

Last two weeks, I realized the front windscreen have leaks again during a car wash. I did fixed it by using silicon sealant on 2006, so the RM15 fix lasted for 3 years; not bad at all.

Again, will either consider to reseal it with silicon sealant or just get the windscreen off and use proper sealant for the whole frame during next body paint works!


After all, this is it's 20th year! Unbeleivable, during my childhood, I could never imagine it would last this long. Volvo for life!

Good Day all... Salam Ramadhan!

Tuesday, July 14, 2009


The suspension really need replacement; the absorbers to be perticular. The car had been too bumpy!

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Temperature Gauge Not Working Fix!

I found this fix from Something good to be extended to all. Click this for full details!

Good day :)


Saturday, June 27, 2009

Fw: IMG00706-20090605-1540.jpg

Hi all,

This is a testing post for mobile blogging function. Good day all!

Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device via Vodafone-Celcom Mobile.

Monday, June 08, 2009


Last Saturday was my VOLVO day! As I am currently home on my annual leave, I took this chance to 'recondition' the car. After almost 2 years being left home, the car rarely moves. Imagine I serviced this car last January and it only runs few hundred kilometers until June! Worst, it is parked under hot sun & rain, below a tree, in front of the house compound.

Even with my brother's help to keep on starting the car everyday, and my father who used the car for very short distance trips; the paint works were affected. The paints seems faded/oxidized badly. Thus, last Saturday, sent the car for car wash and polish it! Yeah it get better, but still 'unrepairable'. Perhaps its time for new coat of paint; after 11 years of repainting :)

The 10-Years Old Water Pump

Hi all,

With reference to my previous posts, I expected that the water pump to due very soon, the first reason is it aged 10 years old this year, and it started to leak off drops of water.

Thus, last Friday, went to the usual workshop to check on the water pump. Just because I need to use the car yesterday for long distance journey, so I have to ensure that all parts are in good running condition. Upon disassemble, the mechanic told that the pump is still OK. The only thing is that we need to change the gasket & seals.

upon disassemble.. the rust colored 'water coolant' cleaned afterwards

the water pump seal kit

Thanks to the durable pump, we did changed the seal that day, flush out the 'water coolant', and have a cooler system!

Good day :)

Tuesday, May 19, 2009



I just launched VOLVO 940 LIVE! yesterday! Another blog of mine on another model of Volvo. As it is still new, I am trying my best to produce more informative posts from day-to-day.

Different from this blog where I write based on real expeience I encounter during my journey with the 240, I currently do not own any 940. Thus, the posts are just based on my readings, research, that I think will still benefit us all. Do drop by the page!

Good day :)

Friday, May 08, 2009

Drive Safely

Hi all,

Last few days, I attended a safety talk. The thing is that I have to attend the same safety talk for 4 times! Which then transpire me to write on road safety while driving this time.

1) Never answer your mobile phone while driving

We did discussed this during the talk. The presenter stressed that we should not answer any calls while driving, but stop at a safe spot to attend to the calls; even hands-free are not permitted. Some of us were surprised on the fact that hands-free device are prohibited as well. What more of texting while driving.

Studies had been done and showed that it is not driving with one-hand on the wheel and the other hand on the phone is the major cause of accidents; it is the call that distract your mind and attention from the road. Even if you divert it to your speakers, more or less you will be thinking on the 'other world' once you started attending to calls. This is why hands-free are not allowable as well.

Where to stop? They shared a case happened in Miri. A driver did stopped his car by a roadside to answer a call. While attending to the call, a motorbike passed-by and hit the back of the car. Both riders felt down to the road after they hit the car. Unfortunately, because of heavy traffic on that road, other car immediately slammed both of them and they died on the spot! In this case, the stopped driver is not being safe at all, yes he did stopped to attend his call, but he ended-up killing two lives (with God-will). Thus, please note that you should stop at safe spots such as car park area, or designated rest area while cruising on highways; or don't answer the call at all!

2) To be able to see and be seen

This is specially during morning drives. For instance, you went out on the road early in the morning where you be able to see everything clearly without headlamps. However does others see you clearly? This is why Volvo's comes out with Day-Running-Lights (DRLs). DRLs have proven to extend the visibility of your vehicle to the others up to six time!

240 with DRL

If in case your car is not equipped with DRLs, please switch on your headlamps or at least fog lamps. This really helps to alert other road users; hence making the road safer.

3) Maintain your car properly

Car maintenance is vital in ensuring your safety. Fundamental parts such as bulbs, brakes, engine, tyres, should be inspected regularly (follow service plan). Failures of these parts could cause serious road accidents; when you cannot brake in-time, when your worn tyre skids, when you engine suddenly dies-off on highways, etc.

They seem simple but vital. Sometimes it is just a very small leak on the brake lines, or just a blown-up bulbs, but during emergency situation, they are extremely needed. Imagine you do a hard-braking, but the bulbs blown, other cars at the back will most probably hit you shortly after that!

In addition, suspension system are also a part of your vehicle safety system. Suspension system were designed as such to be able to provide comfort as well as control in emergency situation such as sudden swerve and hard braking. Do not modify them, they had been carefully engineered to control your car accordingly.

4) Attitude

Last but fundamental; is your attitude. Be patient, tolerate, and mindful on the road. Being in Volvo doesn't mean that we could freely speed off here and there. Mind you that driving a Volvo possess you more responsibilities; because in case of any accident, you might be very safe while you easily kill other peoples!

Always abide to rulings such as wear your safety belt, front and rear passengers; maintain at speed limit, do not cross double lines, or overtaking over double lines. Those signs and posts are not there for display or cosmetic purpose only. Authorities had studied the road conditions accordingly before putting them up.

At the end of the day, safety is up to you. You know your car best, you know the driving condition and what is safe for you best than others :)

Wednesday, April 08, 2009

New Battery + Exhaust Works!

Hi all,

I just came back about a week and drive the 240 from and to Shah Alam & Bangi everyday to attend some training here. It took about 80km per day with moderate traffic and highway cruise (around 110 to 120km/h); every morning and afternoon.

1) Battery

Last Saturday, was told by my father that the Volvo cannot start, battery is too weak. I jump started the car and drive it around. Unfortunately that afternoon, the battery dies again. After 2 and half years, the battery gone. Get it replaced and the car starts fine.

new GP DIN66 battery

2) Exhaust

The other issue is whining metal vibration sound especially when reaching 2000rpm. I suspected there is something wrong with the exhaust as the noise comes from underneath the car (around exhaust pipes). I did peek through it yesterday when I saw the rubber hanger that holds exhaust muffler was teared down; concluding that it is the cause; the exhaust vibrates and touch the car's body metal.

the broken rubber hanger

Today after work, I dropped by a general exhaust shop in Sri Muda, Shah Alam for a quick rubber hanger replacement. Upon lifting up the car and preliminary checks, the guy showed me that there are leaks! The leaks are as per attached picture. With RM10, he helped me to weld/patch them back using arc welding.

where the cracks...

patch-up with arc welding

Is there any symptom of leaking exhaust? Yes! Apart of louder noise, the car will have less power/pickup. How could this happen? One of the theory is that it relates with air flow. For instance, with closed exhaust pipes and muffler, there are air resistance which controls the air flow. Hence, we will get the desired air/fuel mixture with a right air flow. Once there are leaks, air travels faster (out and in). Thus, there are unburn fuels which moves very fast with the air. This is why you will get less power.

Consequences to that, we will then try to press the accelerator more to get more power; thus more unburn fuel; more fuel lost. Fuel consumption will be higher than usual.

In this case, I experienced all the three. However I took different initial thought; the noise was due to broken rubber hanger; the power loss was due to some electrical problems such as plugs, ignition coil, cables, or the pickup sensor; and the high FC is due to bad tyres and suspension system which causes the car to lag. And they are wrong. Sigh...

3) Water Pump

Yeah, its going to due soon. The seals are leaking some coolant at very very low rate; will get it changed in the next workshop visit. Just for sharing purpose, the water pump was replaced back 10 years ago using GMC brand if not mistaken (Germany). Satisfied with it, and have to respect it's due date :)

with sharp eyes, you should see the water drops..

All-in-all the Volvo 240 still running strong! It needs some body works and suspension restoration only. Good day all :)

Monday, March 16, 2009

940GL with B230E?

Hi all,

Just curious of these 940. I just dropped by a car showroom where they have this 940GL model 1991 with B230E engine. Does 940 comes with B230E? Thinking of getting it for cheap, but so sorry that I cannot take this car for the offered price is just not reasonable at all given the condition of the car that have been parked and unused for about a year. Just sharing some pictures.