Let's Fix the Odometer!

Hi guys, this post will be a long one with pictures and instructions. The odometer stopped working; whereas I have changed one of the gear last 4 years until it stopped again now. Let's go straight from how to remove the cluster, open it, and replace the gear which always the culprit.

But before that, you might want to read my earlier post on check you should do if your odometer/speedometer does not function before opening-out the instrument cluster. OK straight to the steps;

[CLICK ON THE IMAGE FOR CLEARER ARROWS & CAPTIONS]

A) Removing The Instrument Cluster

1)Remove the dimmer adjuster knob gently, it might be a little tight;

2) Likewise, remove the headlamp switch knob;

3) Gently slide off (towards you) the trim;

4) Pry off the black trim (behind the knobs);

5) Detach the black panel, just let it hang out, no need to detach the wires;

6) Pry off black trim around the clock;

7) Pry off the black trim below clock panel;

8) At RHS of the cluster, unscrew 2x Philips screws, and remove the black metal panel;

9) Likewise, at LHS of the instrument cluster, unscrew 2x Philips screws;

10) Then you are ready to slide-off the instrument cluster; don't be clumsy/rushing, take it off front 'front', using both hand on RHS & LHS of the cluster, and pull it forward gently; You may want to detach horn cover on the steering column (CAR WITH AIRBAG REQUIRE ADDITIONAL STEPS TO DETACH STEERING COVER);

11) From back end of the cluster, remove wires as mentioned in above pictures; again be gentle, it might be hard to detach especially for the first time; then you are ready to bring the cluster indoor...

to be continued...

Squeaky Steering Cover Plastics

Ever wonder how to fix it? Yeah, sometimes it is quite annoying to hear those steering cover plastics squeaks. Some says; for this 20 years old car, perhaps the plastic had warped, not in it's best shape already so squeaks here and there should be normal. But it can be fix!

Very simple, there are 6 screws located around the cover. Just tightened them up with hand-tight torque; DO NOT OVER-TIGHT, THE PLASTIC WILL BROKE! If in case it had been already tight, untight a little bit and re-tighten them.

These are allen-screws. Please use appropriate allen-key to tightened them.

The aboves are philips type screws; located to the sides. You can use normal philips screw driver for them.

These screws are also philips. This is under the steering column. I was surprised to see how loose they are just now.

Then go for a test drive. Yeah! The squeaks had almost gone! Good Day :)

RON95 for 240?

With recent government introduction of RON95 petrol, most petrol station diminished their RON97 products; and drivers are mostly left with RON95 option. There's a lot of argument on this RON issue, some says its a low-grade fuel, some says it is not compatible with modern cars, etc.

What is RON? RON stands for Research Octane Number. Fuels are chains of hydrocarbon (CH chains). The more stable the chain are, the more strong chemical bonding occurs between them. This will result in more output power when being burnt. Higher bond are indicated by higher RON. Contra to that, lower RON indicates that the chemical bonding of the hydrocarbons chain are weaker. They might get burnt pre-maturely; for instance, upon compression in the engine, and when spark plug is about to on, it gets combusted already. This resulted in two things; pre-mature burnt causes 'knocking' while weaker bond gives lower output power.


How to know whether you engine are design to accept which RON? Your owner's manual is always the best resource. For this Volvo 240, it is stated that minimum RON is RON87 while the most recommended fuel is RON91 and higher. Thus theoretically RON95 should be no problem. I also had refuel RON95 twice; and no problem at all, did not notice any lacking though. Just the same performance. Perhaps 97 and 95 are not differ so much that will produce obvious performance difference.

So, RON95 is OK for this old brick!

DIY That Have Re-Failed....

I did some DIY on my car, some are after readings and research on the net, and some are just my trial & error basis. And what had failed back?

Odometer Stopped Working Again

My odometer stopped working in 1999. However then, the best solution is just to change the whole instrument cluster; which my father says no need (waste a lot of money just to get odometer function). Up until one day I found odometer repair manual online, I discussed it with my father and decided to fix it by DIY! Did it on 2005, it runs perfect since then; but after 4 years stopped again. Perhaps due to 'cheap' plastic gear being used as replacement.

Will get the instrument cluster opened and fixed; this time with exclusive post to vol240.blogspot.com of course!


Windscreen Leaks

Last two weeks, I realized the front windscreen have leaks again during a car wash. I did fixed it by using silicon sealant on 2006, so the RM15 fix lasted for 3 years; not bad at all.

Again, will either consider to reseal it with silicon sealant or just get the windscreen off and use proper sealant for the whole frame during next body paint works!

[http://vol240.blogspot.com/2006/05/fix-pixs-cont.html]
[http://vol240.blogspot.com/2006/05/fix-pixs.html]
[http://vol240.blogspot.com/2006/05/windscreen-healed.html]



After all, this is it's 20th year! Unbeleivable, during my childhood, I could never imagine it would last this long. Volvo for life!


Good Day all... Salam Ramadhan!

Shots!

The suspension really need replacement; the absorbers to be perticular. The car had been too bumpy!

Temperature Gauge Not Working Fix!

I found this fix from Brickboard.com. Something good to be extended to all. Click this for full details!


Good day :)

wbar8u652g

Fw: IMG00706-20090605-1540.jpg

Hi all,



This is a testing post for mobile blogging function. Good day all!

Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device via Vodafone-Celcom Mobile.

VOLVO Day!

Last Saturday was my VOLVO day! As I am currently home on my annual leave, I took this chance to 'recondition' the car. After almost 2 years being left home, the car rarely moves. Imagine I serviced this car last January and it only runs few hundred kilometers until June! Worst, it is parked under hot sun & rain, below a tree, in front of the house compound.


Even with my brother's help to keep on starting the car everyday, and my father who used the car for very short distance trips; the paint works were affected. The paints seems faded/oxidized badly. Thus, last Saturday, sent the car for car wash and polish it! Yeah it get better, but still 'unrepairable'. Perhaps its time for new coat of paint; after 11 years of repainting :)

The 10-Years Old Water Pump

Hi all,

With reference to my previous posts, I expected that the water pump to due very soon, the first reason is it aged 10 years old this year, and it started to leak off drops of water.

Thus, last Friday, went to the usual workshop to check on the water pump. Just because I need to use the car yesterday for long distance journey, so I have to ensure that all parts are in good running condition. Upon disassemble, the mechanic told that the pump is still OK. The only thing is that we need to change the gasket & seals.

upon disassemble.. the rust colored 'water coolant' cleaned afterwards


the water pump seal kit

Thanks to the durable pump, we did changed the seal that day, flush out the 'water coolant', and have a cooler system!

Good day :)

VOLVO 940 LIVE!

Guys,

I just launched VOLVO 940 LIVE! yesterday! Another blog of mine on another model of Volvo. As it is still new, I am trying my best to produce more informative posts from day-to-day.

Different from this blog where I write based on real expeience I encounter during my journey with the 240, I currently do not own any 940. Thus, the posts are just based on my readings, research, that I think will still benefit us all. Do drop by the page!

Good day :)

Drive Safely

Hi all,

Last few days, I attended a safety talk. The thing is that I have to attend the same safety talk for 4 times! Which then transpire me to write on road safety while driving this time.

1) Never answer your mobile phone while driving

We did discussed this during the talk. The presenter stressed that we should not answer any calls while driving, but stop at a safe spot to attend to the calls; even hands-free are not permitted. Some of us were surprised on the fact that hands-free device are prohibited as well. What more of texting while driving.

Studies had been done and showed that it is not driving with one-hand on the wheel and the other hand on the phone is the major cause of accidents; it is the call that distract your mind and attention from the road. Even if you divert it to your speakers, more or less you will be thinking on the 'other world' once you started attending to calls. This is why hands-free are not allowable as well.

Where to stop? They shared a case happened in Miri. A driver did stopped his car by a roadside to answer a call. While attending to the call, a motorbike passed-by and hit the back of the car. Both riders felt down to the road after they hit the car. Unfortunately, because of heavy traffic on that road, other car immediately slammed both of them and they died on the spot! In this case, the stopped driver is not being safe at all, yes he did stopped to attend his call, but he ended-up killing two lives (with God-will). Thus, please note that you should stop at safe spots such as car park area, or designated rest area while cruising on highways; or don't answer the call at all!

2) To be able to see and be seen

This is specially during morning drives. For instance, you went out on the road early in the morning where you be able to see everything clearly without headlamps. However does others see you clearly? This is why Volvo's comes out with Day-Running-Lights (DRLs). DRLs have proven to extend the visibility of your vehicle to the others up to six time!

240 with DRL

If in case your car is not equipped with DRLs, please switch on your headlamps or at least fog lamps. This really helps to alert other road users; hence making the road safer.

3) Maintain your car properly

Car maintenance is vital in ensuring your safety. Fundamental parts such as bulbs, brakes, engine, tyres, should be inspected regularly (follow service plan). Failures of these parts could cause serious road accidents; when you cannot brake in-time, when your worn tyre skids, when you engine suddenly dies-off on highways, etc.

They seem simple but vital. Sometimes it is just a very small leak on the brake lines, or just a blown-up bulbs, but during emergency situation, they are extremely needed. Imagine you do a hard-braking, but the bulbs blown, other cars at the back will most probably hit you shortly after that!

In addition, suspension system are also a part of your vehicle safety system. Suspension system were designed as such to be able to provide comfort as well as control in emergency situation such as sudden swerve and hard braking. Do not modify them, they had been carefully engineered to control your car accordingly.

4) Attitude

Last but fundamental; is your attitude. Be patient, tolerate, and mindful on the road. Being in Volvo doesn't mean that we could freely speed off here and there. Mind you that driving a Volvo possess you more responsibilities; because in case of any accident, you might be very safe while you easily kill other peoples!

Always abide to rulings such as wear your safety belt, front and rear passengers; maintain at speed limit, do not cross double lines, or overtaking over double lines. Those signs and posts are not there for display or cosmetic purpose only. Authorities had studied the road conditions accordingly before putting them up.

At the end of the day, safety is up to you. You know your car best, you know the driving condition and what is safe for you best than others :)

New Battery + Exhaust Works!

Hi all,


I just came back about a week and drive the 240 from and to Shah Alam & Bangi everyday to attend some training here. It took about 80km per day with moderate traffic and highway cruise (around 110 to 120km/h); every morning and afternoon.


1) Battery

Last Saturday, was told by my father that the Volvo cannot start, battery is too weak. I jump started the car and drive it around. Unfortunately that afternoon, the battery dies again. After 2 and half years, the battery gone. Get it replaced and the car starts fine.

new GP DIN66 battery

2) Exhaust

The other issue is whining metal vibration sound especially when reaching 2000rpm. I suspected there is something wrong with the exhaust as the noise comes from underneath the car (around exhaust pipes). I did peek through it yesterday when I saw the rubber hanger that holds exhaust muffler was teared down; concluding that it is the cause; the exhaust vibrates and touch the car's body metal.

the broken rubber hanger

Today after work, I dropped by a general exhaust shop in Sri Muda, Shah Alam for a quick rubber hanger replacement. Upon lifting up the car and preliminary checks, the guy showed me that there are leaks! The leaks are as per attached picture. With RM10, he helped me to weld/patch them back using arc welding.

where the cracks...

patch-up with arc welding

Is there any symptom of leaking exhaust? Yes! Apart of louder noise, the car will have less power/pickup. How could this happen? One of the theory is that it relates with air flow. For instance, with closed exhaust pipes and muffler, there are air resistance which controls the air flow. Hence, we will get the desired air/fuel mixture with a right air flow. Once there are leaks, air travels faster (out and in). Thus, there are unburn fuels which moves very fast with the air. This is why you will get less power.

Consequences to that, we will then try to press the accelerator more to get more power; thus more unburn fuel; more fuel lost. Fuel consumption will be higher than usual.

In this case, I experienced all the three. However I took different initial thought; the noise was due to broken rubber hanger; the power loss was due to some electrical problems such as plugs, ignition coil, cables, or the pickup sensor; and the high FC is due to bad tyres and suspension system which causes the car to lag. And they are wrong. Sigh...


3) Water Pump

Yeah, its going to due soon. The seals are leaking some coolant at very very low rate; will get it changed in the next workshop visit. Just for sharing purpose, the water pump was replaced back 10 years ago using GMC brand if not mistaken (Germany). Satisfied with it, and have to respect it's due date :)

with sharp eyes, you should see the water drops..

All-in-all the Volvo 240 still running strong! It needs some body works and suspension restoration only. Good day all :)

940GL with B230E?

Hi all,

Just curious of these 940. I just dropped by a car showroom where they have this 940GL model 1991 with B230E engine. Does 940 comes with B230E? Thinking of getting it for cheap, but so sorry that I cannot take this car for the offered price is just not reasonable at all given the condition of the car that have been parked and unused for about a year. Just sharing some pictures.

Latest!

Latest pix, just for fun! Good day all :)

Power Steering Rack Overhauled

Hi all.

Another regular service was done last week. Plus, the power steering rack overhauled. It has been leaking for months. Started off with minor leaks where fluid decreases over weeks. Leaks are obvious on the under-engine anti splash pan. And the ATF level from power steering fluid reservoir dropped. As the car seldomly being used nowadays, we just topped-up the fluid before making any trip. However, it has come to the time to get it fixed; leakage rate was high. Went and see the same mechanic for last 'Major Service' in Sea Park, PJ. Oh, I think he is the one, the mechanic that I am looking for for years; a replica of our late mechanic. He really know his subject.

Sorry for not having any repair pictures here. The mechanic detached the two hoses from power steering pump, detached both RHS & LHS tie-rod end, and took down the whole steering rack. The rack were dismantled into parts; and being washed (using sort of turpentine/degreaser) thouroughly and dried off (very important to really dry it off!). Ordered a power steering overhaul kit which consists off oil seals, o-rings, and copper washers, all of them changed. The job was done very thoroughly to avoid any water or air seepage into the hydraulic system. It must be well airtightened to avoid air bubbles contained in the system.
After replacing all seals and o-rings, the rack then be re-assembled and re-attached to the car. Good mechanic will practice this; clean up everything before re-assemble; clean up the oily anti-splash pan, bolts & nuts, the steering rack holder, as well as its' oily surrounding. Why cleaning up is very important? This is because, within a clean and clear area, even a slow leaks could be immediately detected! This is why engine bay cleanliness is very important!

Got the engine oil changed as well. The car had travelled less than even 3000km since the last engine oil change somewhere on June. However, I stick to the maintenance chart; using semi-synthetic oil, engine oil must be changed every 10,000km or 6 months whichever comes first. I continue using the Petronas Synthium 800 Semi-Synthetic engine oil.


This mechanic really applies what he did before in Federal Auto I guess (FA is Volvo Appointed Sales & Service company in Malaysia); he raised-up the car, using a torch light, looking at all brake lines, brake pads, bushings, and overall undercarriage inspection. He also did air filter cleaning, check battery water level, coolant level, windshield washer level. He did used an 'original Volvo oil filter', changed the drain plug washer, as well as engine oil cap rubber. Complete!

Overall, now the car is in 'good running condition' again! Good day all :)

A Drive To Remember, 240GLT!

Hi guys. It has been a while since I last 'seriously' blogging about 240. Let me share something on my recent driving experience of another 240. I was on a trip for 3 days last week where I got a privileged to drive a 240GLT with B230E engine for the whole 3 days. Thanks to the owner, En Zahrin who kindly lend me the car during my stay there.


For the benefit of all, 240GLT in Malaysia is a non-turbo model. This models was named with GLT to be 'sport' model of 240. This model equipped with full accessories such as electric side mirror, all sort of gauges (engine oil pressure, fuel consumption, voltmeter), and I beleive some differences on the interior color (offered for Malaysia market that time). This has been always a misconception that GLT stands for Turbo, while that is not the case for Malaysian market. The engine remain the same, the B230E for either 240GL, GLT, SE, or even SE Classic.

the engine oil gauge is not working, wire detached from sensor...

Generally the car is well-kept. The body looks nice even with minor rust here and there (which is reasonable of its' age & location near sea shore). A body repainting or touch-up will do. However, on the first start and drive, I notice some lacking. The idling rpm was too low that the engine trumbles quite hard (the steering & dashboard also vibrates). I do not noticed this on my 240. After a day drive, I noticed this low rpm symptom occurs even when the engine had been warmed up and operating under hot sun! I also noticed some misfiring and pick-up was quite lagging.

nice interior huh...

With tight schedule, I only got the time to look into it on my last day! Before my afternoon drive, I did a very simple tweaks for the low idling rpm. I did this based on my readings and other Volvo club member's experience as I do not own/drive one with injection engine. I switched off the air-cond, and start to play around with the idling speed screw (see image). A little bit of adjustment only! This screw is meant to adjust idling speed/rpm. It is not a 'tuning' screw; meaning that it won't change the air/fuel mixture ratio at all. I successfully got the right rpm (see image) and got the engine to run smoothly. Even crank-up is faster, idling speed is more stable, and the best thing is no more steering & dashboard vibrating during traffic light stops. I suggest this link for more reading on this problem.

i gained 800rpm idling speed without air-cond and close to 900rpm when air-cond switched on


the idling speed adjustment screw

As for the misfiring, I notices some water collected at the spark plug cable boots. I really have no idea of where the waters came from, but beleived that is the culprit. Later on the day I did sent it for a car wash where I borrowed their high pressure air-gun and dry off the plug cable's boot. It also solved the misfiring! However I do beleive that the cables may need to be changed :)

we called it 'Snow Car Wash' in Malaysia :)

How do I solve the pickup problem? Very simple! I dropped by a petrol station, inflate the tyre according to the pressure specification written on the petroll refill cap cover. Straight away after that, I felt the pickup is back! And I cannot deny that the car was fast!

The owner complaint that his family did not want to drive the car because of high fuel consumption. Driving for the first three days, I have to admit that the car fuel consumption was indeed really high! Of course as per compared to my caburated 240. Good that the car equipped with fuel consumption meter. After the simple tweak done (on the idling rpm), I can noticably see from the meter that the fuel consumption started to dropped from previous as I drive around. The below pictures indicated the fuel consumption while at idling rpm which is around 800rpm. I am not sure if that is the idle fuel consumption of an idling engine because I don't have that gauge in my machine; but I thought that is good enough.

gauges at idling

After all, it is really a pleasure for a chance of driving a 240 back, after months of not driving it! Good day all :)

History of Volvo

Its good to know the root of the machine we are driving now :)

Eid Mubarak

Dear Muslim readers,

I would like to wish all Muslim readers Happy Eidulfitri (Eid Mubarak). May Allah bless us and accept all our ibadah for the last one month of Ramadhan and bring happiness in this Syawal. Drive safely during this festival season :)

KAMI The Movie!

Finally, in Malaysia film industry, a VOLVO 240 being featured as a star! Last night I went to a friend's house where his friend did some nostalgic talks on their 'teenange' days; how he and his friends rode-on a VOLVO 240! Then I started to remember about this newly born film.

I haven't got any chance yet to watch this film, but the scenery of youths driving a VOLVO 240 really attract me to watch it, sooner or later. Nowadays, it is a common scene in Malaysia to see youngsters and college students driving a 240; most probably inherited from our parents. The resale value is damn low, the car is damn reliable that it still continue running after decades, our parents get damn bored already with the car and getting new cars, so the best option is to givi it to the children! The most cost effective & safest method to help the children to travel :)

Square Type Headlamp

A friend send this photo off. What a nice square type headlamp fixed onto this car. For Malaysian market, there is no such headlamp. We just have a big full square headlamp for all 200 series. I was told that the lamp was imported from USA. A friend who used to live in USA brought it back to Malaysia, and damn! Very nice!

This car still be driven by the original 2.1 244GL engine. However it used the latest 240 autobox, and got all 4 windows powered.

p/s - thanks Kay for the picture.