VOLVO 240 LIVE!!

And finally...

2011-11-28T21:45:00.001+08:00

Dear my beloved readers. I wonder if this may be the last post here related to the V240 B230K I'm always writing about. Last two weeks, we have sold the car to an uncle after 15 years in the house.

The car was purchased by my father on 1996. He bought it from a company auction, reasonable price for a car that was fully maintained by Volvo authorised service center, Federal Auto. It came with the original delivery hand note back in 1989, the service book, and the owners manual; in its' Volvo black folder. I was only twelve then. So in short, I, my sister, and brothers, and my mom, and my father also; we actually grew up or has at least spent most of our days with this car around. It has stayed in the house for 15 years!

My father is not a Volvo-die heart fan. He was an aircraft maintenance engineer, so you may conclude he knows about cars very well. He keeps on disciplined regular oil change, fix things immediately, and keep engine bay as clean as possible. This is very important and has proven to allow a long lasting (and trouble-free) cars.

No major problem encountered throughout these 15 years. Never broke down by roadsides, never came up with surprises at weird places and time, and if something were to broke-out, it will always have some kind of warning signs. Our beloved mechanics passed away on 2006, I migrated to Labuan on 2007, bla bla bla.. All these changes in life, has made the car to 'live by itself'. Very minimal care could be tendered to it, while it is undergoing ageing more and more attention should be given to it. That was exactly why we have to sell the car.

I posted the advertisement in Mudah.my. Up to my surprise, I could get around 3 calls per day, and deal was made in less than 1 week! We should have put higher price tags if we knew the demand for a good 240 like this is actually high. My apology for some of you who called and emailed me personally to have the car; when it was already sold.

Enjoy the pictures~

on its last day, Saturday morning....

hahaha... I was 13 in this picture..

I guess this is 2004.. we were on the way from Perak to KL

treasure hunt 2006.. captured at Bukit Larut, Perak

i still remember this... 2007... on the way back from our favorite mamak stall in Tronoh!

treasure hunting..2007

88!

haaa... in Ipoh, meetups with VOCM members (Gustav & Mark)

see how beautiful the engine bay was, and how young I was then~~

this one is captured while driving to Jusco Ipoh~ midnight movies yeah~

haaa... UTP's mosque

Bye-bye my road warrior, my 240!

Aircond Hose

2011-08-06T16:36:00.000+08:00

Last week, we changed the third (last) air-cond hose that have survived for the last 22 years. My brother who drove the car complaint that the air-cond unit is not working optimumly. The cooling lacks, it feels warmer during the day but okay during night. That is an obvious symptom that the refrigerant is getting low. Refrigerant will not getting low of no reason; where leaks are common cause of refrigerant depletion.

exploded diagram, the red labelled hose was changed

By looking at the exploded diagram of our 240 air-cond system, there are 3 main hoses wired. This car have 2 hoses replaced earlier. And per my visual inspection, I knew that the thrid one has started a minor leak.

the wet hose indicated leaks

this is where the other end of the hose terminated; to the silencer located behind front grille

new hose in place

Went to our normal air-cond workshop where we decided to change the hose. We have also decided to change the refrigerant accumulator which have accumulated enough dirts in it.

the old, and the new

The accumulator have also in service since the past 22 years, so its time for a change. We are not using original VOLVO parts for this, as hose and accumulator are common items of any car air-cond system would have. We have other similar brand to replace the older ones. The pressostat mounted on accumulator and its steel bracket were re-installed on the new accumulator.

new accumulator in place

Now it works fine, cool as always~~

Good Day!

Like VOLVO 240 LIVE on Facebook!

2011-06-20T23:17:00.000+08:00

As time flies by, and as I get so hooked to Facebook, please to announce that I have created a replica page of this blog in Facebook as well. Do Like Us, we may interact, share our passions and knowledge about this car in a more LIVE way! See you guys!

New Absorbers & Solex Cisac Tuned

2011-05-31T07:27:00.000+08:00

It was last two weeks, that I have decided to try a workshop in Old Klang Road, Kuala Lumpur. I am sure as a Volvo fellas in Kuala Lumpur, most of you may be knowing this shop very well. Had visited them before with a friend and I have good thoughts on how they work, one year down the road after much survey done, gave a try on them.

My intention was to completely get my suspension done, it was bumping here and there already, so uncomfortable. I knew both front and rear absorbers have gave away, after approximately one decade of service. So in short;

1- Performed regular engine oil change. This time we are back to the Caltex engine oil, with semi synthetic type. I plan to have the car serviced only 6-monthly, so semi synthetic is good to go. Unfortunately, the shop is using 'local' made oil filter. You cannot see the difference at first sight between a local made filter and original filter. Their stamp is exactly the same, only that local made filter is sometimes stamped with light blue color while original units use dark color fonts. To reconfirm, when you start the engine, the engine oil pressure warning stays for a second before it disappear. An original filter will turn off the warning light immediately as the engine starts. It have embedded pressure valve which other filters do not have. It is okay, next change I will insist on original filter.

2- After test drive, the mechanic recommended to change only the front absorbers. Rear absorbers have worn out but not that bad, he insisted me to use them until they 'really' broke, "typical Federal Auto man" I whispered to myself. So get both changed to Boge brand. The comfort restored!

3- There's a leak on the gearbox oil selas, which have slowly drain out the transmission fluid, this is a manual M47 tranny so it is not so crucial having low transmission fluid. As the job requires the whole gearbox to be brought down, we decided to just top up the fluid, and do it later perhaps with clutch works as well.

4- The best part is the engine mixture tuning. Previous mechanic seems so cautious he did not dare to touch the Solex carburetor, yes most of mechanics have bad experience while adjusting Solex. I know only well trained mechanics knows how it works. With a CO meter assistance, they have managed to tuned it to the best. It has not been tuned since the past 5 years! With new plugs and tuning, I could feel vast difference! Engine are smoother, quiter, one morning start only, and the best of all I gained back the good fuel consumption I have ever had from my day one of driving.

Phew, good that it got back to right hands and right shape. Some cosmetic works are still needed, especially on the cushions. The cushions look wonderfully beautiful since day one, not until you seat on it. It sanks..hahaha...

Good Day all!

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Jalan Pekeliling,Klia,Malaysia

Junk Yard Sale

2011-04-23T22:53:00.000+08:00

ITEM 01. The K-Jet fuel pump, filter, and accumulator steel bracket set for V740/940. MYR 10.

ITEM 02. Instrument cluster for V940 1991-1992. All working except speedometer. You'll need to re-install the clock controller from your original board. MYR 50.

ITEM03. Brand NEW TRW front brake pads. Wrongly bought so not used until now. For S90/V90/ newer 900 series. MYR100.

ITEM04. Volvo 240 Original Cassette Player/AM/FM. No Code required. MYR40.

ITEM05. Stereo faceplate for upperdash Volvo 240, for LHS driver models. MYR 20.

ITEM06. Buttons (Rear view mirror heater & Power antenna) for V740/940. MYR05/pc.

ITEM07. Button cover plate for V740/940. MYR 05.

ITEM08. Volvo 240/740/940 B230E/200E Fuel Pump/Filter/Accumulator U-Hose. MYR10.

ITEM09. Volvo 240/740/940 Brake Servo Hose. The check valve may not work already. Original Volvo hose, still in very good condition. MYR10.

ITEM10. Volvo 240/740/940 Tie Rod End cover. MYR10.

ITEM11. Volvo 740/940 Dashboard Cloth Cover. MYR10.

ITEM12. Volvo 240/740/940 LHS Side Mirror Plate without Glass. MYR05.

ITEM12. Volvo 240/740/940 B230E/200E Volumeter Gasket. Brand NEW. MYR20.

ITEM14. Brand New. Ansell Hyflex Glove, good for working with autos. I have 5 pairs now. MYR10/pair.

I am getting off above items at very minimum cost, just to clear off my store space. The above price is in MYR (Malaysian Ringgit) and exclusive of shipping costs. Email me at ahmadzhafri@gmail.com if you are interested in any of above items. Thanks.

Good Day!

BrickWalla - Fantastic 240 Blog from Malaysia!

2011-03-23T21:41:00.000+08:00

Please visit this BrickWalla blog on 240, also from Malaysia. Proud to share with you guys the fantastic page from my Malaysian, Volvo blogger friend.

Good Day!

Another Major Service Done!

2011-02-03T07:41:00.000+08:00

Last service was done on June 2010! And the mileage covered from then is just 5,000km. Have it serviced with some parts changed;

a) As usual, get the engine oil and filter changed. Using semi-synthetic oil, original oil filter. This workshop always practice changing the drain plug gasket and engine oil cap rubber seal on each service.

b) Both LHS and RHS wishbone bush have cracked. Changed both. Changing wishbone bush requires hydraulic pressing on it and usually performed at certain workshops who have the facility to push in the bush. Some mechanic even tack weld at the edge of the wishbone bush metal to secure it.

c) LHS ball joint worn out. Tyre loose out under 'grip & shake' test. New Lamforder ball joint installed.

d) Long shaft or the propeller flex disc coupling was also cracked. Get it changed as well. This part is vital as it connect the output shaft of the gearbox to the propeller shaft. It ensure your car move nice!

Good Day all!

PDF Books

2011-02-03T07:23:00.000+08:00

If you are looking for PDF resources on our Volvos, I would recommend below pages;

For owners manual copy, in case if you bought a second hand Volvo without these copies, you can always download it direct from Volvo Cars. This copies are essential for every owners, stating operating manual and service intervals checklist as well. Follow below link;

http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/yourvolvo/volvo-vehicle-information-library/pages/default.aspx

For Volvo repair manuals or we call it as Volvo Green Book, our friend in k-jet.org have a lot of them. Follow his link below;

http://www.kjet.org/

If in case you require specific pdf books on Volvo, I do also have some. Just email me at [ahmadzhafri at gmail dot com]

Good Day!

Solution for Tickering Speedometer

2011-02-03T07:14:00.000+08:00

Hi readers. As I have posted earlier on my speedometer problem, have get my local mechanic here to troubleshoot and fix it for me. It was the rear speedometer sensor wire located at the rear axle which was the culprit. The wires have torn a little bit, however being covered with road grimes. The mechanic clean it up to reveal some part of the wires have worn out.

this is the problem...

old slight worn wire

Very simple fix, rewiring from the socket to the point where it enters rear boot. Done and the meter works perfectly now!

rewired

Solex Cisac Idle Air Compensation

2011-01-16T15:46:00.000+08:00

The B230K engine well fitted with Solex Cisac carburetor. This 'modern' caburetor is well equipped more with pneumatics equipment. One of them is the idle air compensator unit mounted, which work based on pneumatic air/vacuum. The working principle is very simple, at the same time air-cond compressors engaged, a pneumatic valve mounted on firewall will be activated. It simply sucks air in, connected to the idle air compensator on the carburetor. The unit then through its' 'handle' throttles up the car. This balances idling speed both with and without air-cond.

labelled #94

And for me, the unit had broken. The car idle speed drops once air-cond is switched on. Yeah, not so big deal because most of the time the car is in higher speed cruise. The unit have become to 'extinction', very difficult to get a new one. A friend of mine is selling his used unit of Solex Cisac carburetor of same specification. I bought it and swapped the idle air compensator unit!

NEW on left, OLD on right

Note the location of the unit. There are one vacuum line fitted with 2 torx mounting screws. Detached the old unit and swap in new unit, very simple. For me I need to adjust the compensator screw to move the 'handle' further in before it could throttle up. Once installed, you need to start the engine to its operating temperature, turn on the air-cond. Observe that when air-cond compressor is engaged, the compensator 'handle' must move in. To adjust the movement so that it meets same idle rpm, you have to turn an adjustment screw located at the back of the unit. Turn counter clockwise to move in the 'handle' and vice versa until desired rpm achieved. Mine is set around 900rpm.

to move-in the 'handle'


turn counter clockwise

Grab This CR-712!

2011-01-03T14:55:00.001+08:00

Hi. As I have installed new stereo unit, I am letting go this CR-712 head unit, ship internationally. This is originally taken from an 88' Volvo 240, which I have then used for my 940. This unit does not require code activation. The display screen, buttons, AM/FM, and cassette player are still functioning. You can read my earlier posts on this unit through below links;

http://vol240.blogspot.com/2010/01/cr-712-have-no-code.html

http://vol940.blogspot.com/2010/05/cr-712-installed-in-940.html

Just follow below link to eBay and purchase it there.

http://cgi.ebay.com.my/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280611188687

My VolStall Buyers!

2010-11-28T18:21:00.001+08:00

Hi all, especially to My VolStall buyers! First and foremost, I would like to express thousands apologies as I beleived the form is currently having some bugs. I do received your enquiries, however when I reply to your email address as entered in the form, the email bounced back. Only few people get the message while the rest dont.

If you are one of them who's still waiting for my reply, kindly drop me a direct email at ahmadzhafri@gmail.com

Sorry for inconveniences caused, let me fix the bugs in the meantime.

Good Day all!

Acting Up...Phew

2010-09-27T18:50:00.003+08:00

Finally the speedometer of this 1989 Volvo started to acting-up. I was cruising at a speed of 80km/h while recording this erractic needle jumps. Will update you guys once solved.

My initial thought to check;

1) The speed sensor socket at rear axle have come loose/wires cracked and touching each other. Yesterday I have a look at them and they looks fine with thick road grimes coverings. Will use multimeter to measure at the instrument board socket, if the multimeter jumps here and there as well, most probably will be wiring issues; if not

2) The instrument board/circuit issue. Have to investigate further.

Wish me luck!

Exhaust Restored

2010-09-01T08:35:00.000+08:00

Hi Guys!

Just got the exhaust system repaired (replaced actually). Exhaust system for this B230K have few components, let us check it briefly.

From engine exhaust manifold, there are 2 to 1 exhaust pipe, straight to a muffler situated under rear passenger's floor board. The muffler then connected to a 'bending' pipe which cross above rear axle and beside suspension spring to a second muffler located just under the rear bumper. And finally a tail pipe out from the second muffler to the air!

In my case, the exhaust problem was obvious, when the car sounded like a motorboat engine! It was out loud! Checked to a local exhaust specialist here, and both front and rear exhaust pipe had cracked and leaked gases out. The same goes to the first muffler which had cracked. Got them replaced.

FYI the exhaust pipes had never been changed since 'from factory' almost 21 years ago. And now only the rear muffler and its tail pipe is still sustaining the 'from factory' status!

Good day all!

Latest Pictures

2010-06-05T19:22:00.004+08:00

Hi guys. Enjoy the after new coat pictures. Pictures says thousands words, so do enjoy :)

CLICK ON THE PICTURES FOR BIGGER VIEW

New Paint Job

2010-06-01T21:14:00.002+08:00

Hi all! Wow, it has been quite some time ago since my last post here; yeah nothing much to update on the car, everything was fine with it & as I'm busy with my 940 restoration project, nothing much to write here. By the way, the car has got new coat of paint, the same color, both exterior, interior under the hood plus undercoat for undercarriage.

The job took approximately 3 weeks to finish. The old ugly paint were sand-off, all dents were straightened, scratched bumpers touched-up, rusted floor board re-weld using arc-weld, and the undercarriage is then coated with the black tar type coat (it really makes the car look brand new!).

The workshop had done a good job on painting, especially under the engine hoot and rear boot, it makes the car looks really as brand new, with black finishing on door window's panel. BUT one 'unfavorable' things had happened on the day I took the car out of the workshop. Before payment made, I made a visual inspection around the car, focusing more on engine bay to ensure everything is in-tact as before and as it should be, no wiring damaged, no screws missing, and yeah fully satisfied. Pay, take receipt, adn drove off from the workshop. Just about 2km, the temperature gauge shoots up high quickly. Fortunately there's a petrol station by the side which I then pull off, park there, shut off the engine. Guess what?? NO RADIATOR WATER AT ALL!! Beleive the workshop had detached the expansion tank for painting job, and did not top-up back the drained water. Just let the car cooled down for a while, topped-up with tap water (a lot!) and get started again; OK! So my inspection was not thorough enough :(

Pictures below are some shots under the engine hood, very messy! I will post pictures after I cleaned them up, it looks a lot nicer now! And as for the undercarriage, the tar coat makes the car more quiet now! Perhaps it filled up the tiny-miny spaces down there as well.

OK then, till I post the latest pictures, GOOD DAY ALL!

Ugly Old Machine

2010-03-27T11:53:00.001+08:00

above are BEFOREs... wait for AFTERs..

Volvo Blind Touch

2010-02-27T00:53:00.001+08:00

This video touched me. They are blind at eyes, but they can see through from their hearts.

CR-712 Have No Code!

2010-01-02T08:17:00.003+08:00

Guys, found the answer. Decided to power up the unit with 12V supply to the blue wire and ground on black wire of the unit. The unit power up and shows off immediately radio frequency and could be used without any Code message appears.

Thus, below posts on code hacking is not applicable for CR-712. Next will be installation job into my 940; another chapter of audio installation!

CLICK HERE if you need more information on CR-712 wiring/color coding. Good Day!

CR-712 Have Security Code?

2009-12-24T19:21:00.004+08:00

Finally the 240 stereo set arrived (another product of eBay, again). It was stamped as CR-712; I did opened up the set to look-up for the diode setup but it seems different from CR-702. So I am not so sure if the code calculator for CR-702 could be used for CR-712?

Looking forward to install the unit in the 940 and see if it request for code. Will update you guys!

p/s - does anybody know if CR-712 have security code or not? appreciate your info.. do visit my new home site (http://vol940.blogspot.com) as well!

Classic, Nice, Cheap

2009-11-22T23:37:00.003+08:00

Hi all. Just want to share of my rceent eBay transaction & how eBay might help us with the old Volvos. The courtesy handles on the 240 had turned yellowish, the nut cap had become brittle and dropped off; it doesn't look nice in short. I was planning to replace only the nut cover but then realized it comes per set with the handle itself.

Went over to my favorite Volvo parts dealer in Kuala Lumpur and asked them if they have any stock of the courtesy handle; none. Yeah, as expected nobody buys them, its either their handles are still in mint condition or its just an old car so why bother on the handle? But they offer to order them if I really want the handles and quoted around RM200 per piece, thats mean total of RM600 to get the three handles replaced. Then I just say, never mind.

Went home and share the story with my dad. He said "pergilah tengok dalam Internet" (why don't you go and have a look on the net). Yeah, surfed eBay and I found the handles! To cut it short, succesfully bought 3 pieces of them with total price of RM150 only including courier charges! The seller who is from USA told me that they are used ones, but when the parcel arrived, they look-like a brand new handle! Perhaps USA climate is too gentle to plastics as compared to Malaysia hot tropical climate.

Changed them, now it look nice. A classic car, with nice handle, and cheap!

Volvo Radio Code

2009-11-19T20:34:00.002+08:00

Browsing through sites, finally I found this website. I don't know if this is illegal but; who cares of this more than a decade car stereo! We often listen people who bought second hand unit of Volvo original radio unit will not be able to use them just because of difficulties in getting the radio code (its just too old and owners lost the number).

If you are among them, come and read this wonderful page. Try surfing around and you'll find Volvo Radio Code calculator. What you need to do is to follow the instruction on the website, read your diode arrangement and key-in the diode arrangement to your code calculator software; done!

Enjoy!

Now Let's Finally Fix the Odometer (cont.)

2009-10-30T23:18:00.003+08:00

OK, let us continue from the last post. Now that we have remove the instrument cluster safely, bring it in-door, and;

[CLICK ON THE IMAGE FOR CLEARER ARROWS & CAPTIONS]

B) Fix the gear!

1) Unscrew 7 philips screw as marked on above picture. After that, you could lift the board up from the black housing. DO THIS CAREFULLY TO AVOID DAMAGE TO NEEDLES!

2) Position the board vertically. NEVER LET THE NEEDLE SURFACE DOWN/TOUCH ANYTHING. Unscrew 4 philips screw as above picture. This will enable us to take-out the speedometer/odometer assy;

3) Lift out the speedometer by putting your hands on the speedo plate and lift it out horizontally, AGAIN SLOWLY;

4) You will see this motor attached on the backside of the speedo plate. Unscrew these 2 flat type screws; after that you'll be able to lift out the brown circuit board. JUST LIFT IT OUT, DON'T DISCONNECT IT. This is enough to expose inside gears;

5) From above picture (credit to Eric's), you'll find that for odometer, there are 2 main gears; a small and a big gear. More often than not, the smaller gear is always the culprit (with missing teeth). Inspect them and replace whichever necessary.

I did changed the small gear in 2004 with a local-machined gears and it works fine still after 5 years. Just recently I found the bigger gear is the culprit. Changed it, reinstall back (reinstallation is just reverse of removal) and yeah now the odometer keep on running!

Happy trying & Good Luck!

p/s - DIY at your own risk.. this article is for info sharing and should not be liable for any 'incidents' encountered during your DIY session. good day all!

Let's Fix the Odometer!

2009-10-20T17:09:00.009+08:00

Hi guys, this post will be a long one with pictures and instructions. The odometer stopped working; whereas I have changed one of the gear last 4 years until it stopped again now. Let's go straight from how to remove the cluster, open it, and replace the gear which always the culprit.

But before that, you might want to read my earlier post on check you should do if your odometer/speedometer does not function before opening-out the instrument cluster. OK straight to the steps;

[CLICK ON THE IMAGE FOR CLEARER ARROWS & CAPTIONS]

A) Removing The Instrument Cluster

1)Remove the dimmer adjuster knob gently, it might be a little tight;

2) Likewise, remove the headlamp switch knob;

3) Gently slide off (towards you) the trim;

4) Pry off the black trim (behind the knobs);

5) Detach the black panel, just let it hang out, no need to detach the wires;

6) Pry off black trim around the clock;

7) Pry off the black trim below clock panel;

8) At RHS of the cluster, unscrew 2x Philips screws, and remove the black metal panel;

9) Likewise, at LHS of the instrument cluster, unscrew 2x Philips screws;

10) Then you are ready to slide-off the instrument cluster; don't be clumsy/rushing, take it off front 'front', using both hand on RHS & LHS of the cluster, and pull it forward gently; You may want to detach horn cover on the steering column (CAR WITH AIRBAG REQUIRE ADDITIONAL STEPS TO DETACH STEERING COVER);

11) From back end of the cluster, remove wires as mentioned in above pictures; again be gentle, it might be hard to detach especially for the first time; then you are ready to bring the cluster indoor...

to be continued...

Squeaky Steering Cover Plastics

2009-09-21T09:10:00.003+08:00

Ever wonder how to fix it? Yeah, sometimes it is quite annoying to hear those steering cover plastics squeaks. Some says; for this 20 years old car, perhaps the plastic had warped, not in it's best shape already so squeaks here and there should be normal. But it can be fix!

Very simple, there are 6 screws located around the cover. Just tightened them up with hand-tight torque; DO NOT OVER-TIGHT, THE PLASTIC WILL BROKE! If in case it had been already tight, untight a little bit and re-tighten them.

These are allen-screws. Please use appropriate allen-key to tightened them.

The aboves are philips type screws; located to the sides. You can use normal philips screw driver for them.

These screws are also philips. This is under the steering column. I was surprised to see how loose they are just now.

Then go for a test drive. Yeah! The squeaks had almost gone! Good Day :)

RON95 for 240?

2009-09-15T23:37:00.002+08:00

With recent government introduction of RON95 petrol, most petrol station diminished their RON97 products; and drivers are mostly left with RON95 option. There's a lot of argument on this RON issue, some says its a low-grade fuel, some says it is not compatible with modern cars, etc.

What is RON? RON stands for Research Octane Number. Fuels are chains of hydrocarbon (CH chains). The more stable the chain are, the more strong chemical bonding occurs between them. This will result in more output power when being burnt. Higher bond are indicated by higher RON. Contra to that, lower RON indicates that the chemical bonding of the hydrocarbons chain are weaker. They might get burnt pre-maturely; for instance, upon compression in the engine, and when spark plug is about to on, it gets combusted already. This resulted in two things; pre-mature burnt causes 'knocking' while weaker bond gives lower output power.

How to know whether you engine are design to accept which RON? Your owner's manual is always the best resource. For this Volvo 240, it is stated that minimum RON is RON87 while the most recommended fuel is RON91 and higher. Thus theoretically RON95 should be no problem. I also had refuel RON95 twice; and no problem at all, did not notice any lacking though. Just the same performance. Perhaps 97 and 95 are not differ so much that will produce obvious performance difference.

So, RON95 is OK for this old brick!

DIY That Have Re-Failed....

2009-08-23T11:57:00.002+08:00

I did some DIY on my car, some are after readings and research on the net, and some are just my trial & error basis. And what had failed back?

Odometer Stopped Working Again

My odometer stopped working in 1999. However then, the best solution is just to change the whole instrument cluster; which my father says no need (waste a lot of money just to get odometer function). Up until one day I found odometer repair manual online, I discussed it with my father and decided to fix it by DIY! Did it on 2005, it runs perfect since then; but after 4 years stopped again. Perhaps due to 'cheap' plastic gear being used as replacement.

Will get the instrument cluster opened and fixed; this time with exclusive post to vol240.blogspot.com of course!

Windscreen Leaks

Last two weeks, I realized the front windscreen have leaks again during a car wash. I did fixed it by using silicon sealant on 2006, so the RM15 fix lasted for 3 years; not bad at all.

Again, will either consider to reseal it with silicon sealant or just get the windscreen off and use proper sealant for the whole frame during next body paint works!

[http://vol240.blogspot.com/2006/05/fix-pixs-cont.html]
[http://vol240.blogspot.com/2006/05/fix-pixs.html]
[http://vol240.blogspot.com/2006/05/windscreen-healed.html]

After all, this is it's 20th year! Unbeleivable, during my childhood, I could never imagine it would last this long. Volvo for life!

Good Day all... Salam Ramadhan!

Shots!

2009-07-14T22:02:00.002+08:00

The suspension really need replacement; the absorbers to be perticular. The car had been too bumpy!

Temperature Gauge Not Working Fix!

2009-06-28T21:49:00.003+08:00

I found this fix from Brickboard.com. Something good to be extended to all. Click this for full details!

Good day :)

wbar8u652g

Fw: IMG00706-20090605-1540.jpg

2009-06-27T23:27:00.001+08:00

Hi all,

This is a testing post for mobile blogging function. Good day all!

Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device via Vodafone-Celcom Mobile.

VOLVO Day!

2009-06-08T20:20:00.006+08:00

Last Saturday was my VOLVO day! As I am currently home on my annual leave, I took this chance to 'recondition' the car. After almost 2 years being left home, the car rarely moves. Imagine I serviced this car last January and it only runs few hundred kilometers until June! Worst, it is parked under hot sun & rain, below a tree, in front of the house compound.

Even with my brother's help to keep on starting the car everyday, and my father who used the car for very short distance trips; the paint works were affected. The paints seems faded/oxidized badly. Thus, last Saturday, sent the car for car wash and polish it! Yeah it get better, but still 'unrepairable'. Perhaps its time for new coat of paint; after 11 years of repainting :)

The 10-Years Old Water Pump

2009-06-08T20:09:00.003+08:00

Hi all,

With reference to my previous posts, I expected that the water pump to due very soon, the first reason is it aged 10 years old this year, and it started to leak off drops of water.

Thus, last Friday, went to the usual workshop to check on the water pump. Just because I need to use the car yesterday for long distance journey, so I have to ensure that all parts are in good running condition. Upon disassemble, the mechanic told that the pump is still OK. The only thing is that we need to change the gasket & seals.

upon disassemble.. the rust colored 'water coolant' cleaned afterwards

the water pump seal kit

Thanks to the durable pump, we did changed the seal that day, flush out the 'water coolant', and have a cooler system!

Good day :)

VOLVO 940 LIVE!

2009-05-19T05:35:00.002+08:00

Guys,

I just launched VOLVO 940 LIVE! yesterday! Another blog of mine on another model of Volvo. As it is still new, I am trying my best to produce more informative posts from day-to-day.

Different from this blog where I write based on real expeience I encounter during my journey with the 240, I currently do not own any 940. Thus, the posts are just based on my readings, research, that I think will still benefit us all. Do drop by the page!

Good day :)

Drive Safely

2009-05-08T21:32:00.004+08:00

Hi all,

Last few days, I attended a safety talk. The thing is that I have to attend the same safety talk for 4 times! Which then transpire me to write on road safety while driving this time.

1) Never answer your mobile phone while driving

We did discussed this during the talk. The presenter stressed that we should not answer any calls while driving, but stop at a safe spot to attend to the calls; even hands-free are not permitted. Some of us were surprised on the fact that hands-free device are prohibited as well. What more of texting while driving.

Studies had been done and showed that it is not driving with one-hand on the wheel and the other hand on the phone is the major cause of accidents; it is the call that distract your mind and attention from the road. Even if you divert it to your speakers, more or less you will be thinking on the 'other world' once you started attending to calls. This is why hands-free are not allowable as well.

Where to stop? They shared a case happened in Miri. A driver did stopped his car by a roadside to answer a call. While attending to the call, a motorbike passed-by and hit the back of the car. Both riders felt down to the road after they hit the car. Unfortunately, because of heavy traffic on that road, other car immediately slammed both of them and they died on the spot! In this case, the stopped driver is not being safe at all, yes he did stopped to attend his call, but he ended-up killing two lives (with God-will). Thus, please note that you should stop at safe spots such as car park area, or designated rest area while cruising on highways; or don't answer the call at all!

2) To be able to see and be seen

This is specially during morning drives. For instance, you went out on the road early in the morning where you be able to see everything clearly without headlamps. However does others see you clearly? This is why Volvo's comes out with Day-Running-Lights (DRLs). DRLs have proven to extend the visibility of your vehicle to the others up to six time!

240 with DRL

If in case your car is not equipped with DRLs, please switch on your headlamps or at least fog lamps. This really helps to alert other road users; hence making the road safer.

3) Maintain your car properly

Car maintenance is vital in ensuring your safety. Fundamental parts such as bulbs, brakes, engine, tyres, should be inspected regularly (follow service plan). Failures of these parts could cause serious road accidents; when you cannot brake in-time, when your worn tyre skids, when you engine suddenly dies-off on highways, etc.

They seem simple but vital. Sometimes it is just a very small leak on the brake lines, or just a blown-up bulbs, but during emergency situation, they are extremely needed. Imagine you do a hard-braking, but the bulbs blown, other cars at the back will most probably hit you shortly after that!

In addition, suspension system are also a part of your vehicle safety system. Suspension system were designed as such to be able to provide comfort as well as control in emergency situation such as sudden swerve and hard braking. Do not modify them, they had been carefully engineered to control your car accordingly.

4) Attitude

Last but fundamental; is your attitude. Be patient, tolerate, and mindful on the road. Being in Volvo doesn't mean that we could freely speed off here and there. Mind you that driving a Volvo possess you more responsibilities; because in case of any accident, you might be very safe while you easily kill other peoples!

Always abide to rulings such as wear your safety belt, front and rear passengers; maintain at speed limit, do not cross double lines, or overtaking over double lines. Those signs and posts are not there for display or cosmetic purpose only. Authorities had studied the road conditions accordingly before putting them up.

At the end of the day, safety is up to you. You know your car best, you know the driving condition and what is safe for you best than others :)

New Battery + Exhaust Works!

2009-04-08T22:06:00.003+08:00

Hi all,

I just came back about a week and drive the 240 from and to Shah Alam & Bangi everyday to attend some training here. It took about 80km per day with moderate traffic and highway cruise (around 110 to 120km/h); every morning and afternoon.

1) Battery

Last Saturday, was told by my father that the Volvo cannot start, battery is too weak. I jump started the car and drive it around. Unfortunately that afternoon, the battery dies again. After 2 and half years, the battery gone. Get it replaced and the car starts fine.

new GP DIN66 battery

2) Exhaust

The other issue is whining metal vibration sound especially when reaching 2000rpm. I suspected there is something wrong with the exhaust as the noise comes from underneath the car (around exhaust pipes). I did peek through it yesterday when I saw the rubber hanger that holds exhaust muffler was teared down; concluding that it is the cause; the exhaust vibrates and touch the car's body metal.

the broken rubber hanger

Today after work, I dropped by a general exhaust shop in Sri Muda, Shah Alam for a quick rubber hanger replacement. Upon lifting up the car and preliminary checks, the guy showed me that there are leaks! The leaks are as per attached picture. With RM10, he helped me to weld/patch them back using arc welding.

where the cracks...

patch-up with arc welding

Is there any symptom of leaking exhaust? Yes! Apart of louder noise, the car will have less power/pickup. How could this happen? One of the theory is that it relates with air flow. For instance, with closed exhaust pipes and muffler, there are air resistance which controls the air flow. Hence, we will get the desired air/fuel mixture with a right air flow. Once there are leaks, air travels faster (out and in). Thus, there are unburn fuels which moves very fast with the air. This is why you will get less power.

Consequences to that, we will then try to press the accelerator more to get more power; thus more unburn fuel; more fuel lost. Fuel consumption will be higher than usual.

In this case, I experienced all the three. However I took different initial thought; the noise was due to broken rubber hanger; the power loss was due to some electrical problems such as plugs, ignition coil, cables, or the pickup sensor; and the high FC is due to bad tyres and suspension system which causes the car to lag. And they are wrong. Sigh...

3) Water Pump

Yeah, its going to due soon. The seals are leaking some coolant at very very low rate; will get it changed in the next workshop visit. Just for sharing purpose, the water pump was replaced back 10 years ago using GMC brand if not mistaken (Germany). Satisfied with it, and have to respect it's due date :)

with sharp eyes, you should see the water drops..

All-in-all the Volvo 240 still running strong! It needs some body works and suspension restoration only. Good day all :)

940GL with B230E?

2009-03-16T19:27:00.004+08:00

Hi all,

Just curious of these 940. I just dropped by a car showroom where they have this 940GL model 1991 with B230E engine. Does 940 comes with B230E? Thinking of getting it for cheap, but so sorry that I cannot take this car for the offered price is just not reasonable at all given the condition of the car that have been parked and unused for about a year. Just sharing some pictures.

Latest!

2009-02-22T10:16:00.003+08:00

Latest pix, just for fun! Good day all :)

Power Steering Rack Overhauled

2009-01-25T13:47:00.004+08:00

Hi all.

Another regular service was done last week. Plus, the power steering rack overhauled. It has been leaking for months. Started off with minor leaks where fluid decreases over weeks. Leaks are obvious on the under-engine anti splash pan. And the ATF level from power steering fluid reservoir dropped. As the car seldomly being used nowadays, we just topped-up the fluid before making any trip. However, it has come to the time to get it fixed; leakage rate was high. Went and see the same mechanic for last 'Major Service' in Sea Park, PJ. Oh, I think he is the one, the mechanic that I am looking for for years; a replica of our late mechanic. He really know his subject.

Sorry for not having any repair pictures here. The mechanic detached the two hoses from power steering pump, detached both RHS & LHS tie-rod end, and took down the whole steering rack. The rack were dismantled into parts; and being washed (using sort of turpentine/degreaser) thouroughly and dried off (very important to really dry it off!). Ordered a power steering overhaul kit which consists off oil seals, o-rings, and copper washers, all of them changed. The job was done very thoroughly to avoid any water or air seepage into the hydraulic system. It must be well airtightened to avoid air bubbles contained in the system.
After replacing all seals and o-rings, the rack then be re-assembled and re-attached to the car. Good mechanic will practice this; clean up everything before re-assemble; clean up the oily anti-splash pan, bolts & nuts, the steering rack holder, as well as its' oily surrounding. Why cleaning up is very important? This is because, within a clean and clear area, even a slow leaks could be immediately detected! This is why engine bay cleanliness is very important!

Got the engine oil changed as well. The car had travelled less than even 3000km since the last engine oil change somewhere on June. However, I stick to the maintenance chart; using semi-synthetic oil, engine oil must be changed every 10,000km or 6 months whichever comes first. I continue using the Petronas Synthium 800 Semi-Synthetic engine oil.

This mechanic really applies what he did before in Federal Auto I guess (FA is Volvo Appointed Sales & Service company in Malaysia); he raised-up the car, using a torch light, looking at all brake lines, brake pads, bushings, and overall undercarriage inspection. He also did air filter cleaning, check battery water level, coolant level, windshield washer level. He did used an 'original Volvo oil filter', changed the drain plug washer, as well as engine oil cap rubber. Complete!

Overall, now the car is in 'good running condition' again! Good day all :)

A Drive To Remember, 240GLT!

2008-11-18T21:53:00.004+08:00

Hi guys. It has been a while since I last 'seriously' blogging about 240. Let me share something on my recent driving experience of another 240. I was on a trip for 3 days last week where I got a privileged to drive a 240GLT with B230E engine for the whole 3 days. Thanks to the owner, En Zahrin who kindly lend me the car during my stay there.

For the benefit of all, 240GLT in Malaysia is a non-turbo model. This models was named with GLT to be 'sport' model of 240. This model equipped with full accessories such as electric side mirror, all sort of gauges (engine oil pressure, fuel consumption, voltmeter), and I beleive some differences on the interior color (offered for Malaysia market that time). This has been always a misconception that GLT stands for Turbo, while that is not the case for Malaysian market. The engine remain the same, the B230E for either 240GL, GLT, SE, or even SE Classic.

the engine oil gauge is not working, wire detached from sensor...

Generally the car is well-kept. The body looks nice even with minor rust here and there (which is reasonable of its' age & location near sea shore). A body repainting or touch-up will do. However, on the first start and drive, I notice some lacking. The idling rpm was too low that the engine trumbles quite hard (the steering & dashboard also vibrates). I do not noticed this on my 240. After a day drive, I noticed this low rpm symptom occurs even when the engine had been warmed up and operating under hot sun! I also noticed some misfiring and pick-up was quite lagging.

nice interior huh...

With tight schedule, I only got the time to look into it on my last day! Before my afternoon drive, I did a very simple tweaks for the low idling rpm. I did this based on my readings and other Volvo club member's experience as I do not own/drive one with injection engine. I switched off the air-cond, and start to play around with the idling speed screw (see image). A little bit of adjustment only! This screw is meant to adjust idling speed/rpm. It is not a 'tuning' screw; meaning that it won't change the air/fuel mixture ratio at all. I successfully got the right rpm (see image) and got the engine to run smoothly. Even crank-up is faster, idling speed is more stable, and the best thing is no more steering & dashboard vibrating during traffic light stops. I suggest this link for more reading on this problem.

i gained 800rpm idling speed without air-cond and close to 900rpm when air-cond switched on

the idling speed adjustment screw

As for the misfiring, I notices some water collected at the spark plug cable boots. I really have no idea of where the waters came from, but beleived that is the culprit. Later on the day I did sent it for a car wash where I borrowed their high pressure air-gun and dry off the plug cable's boot. It also solved the misfiring! However I do beleive that the cables may need to be changed :)

we called it 'Snow Car Wash' in Malaysia :)

How do I solve the pickup problem? Very simple! I dropped by a petrol station, inflate the tyre according to the pressure specification written on the petroll refill cap cover. Straight away after that, I felt the pickup is back! And I cannot deny that the car was fast!

The owner complaint that his family did not want to drive the car because of high fuel consumption. Driving for the first three days, I have to admit that the car fuel consumption was indeed really high! Of course as per compared to my caburated 240. Good that the car equipped with fuel consumption meter. After the simple tweak done (on the idling rpm), I can noticably see from the meter that the fuel consumption started to dropped from previous as I drive around. The below pictures indicated the fuel consumption while at idling rpm which is around 800rpm. I am not sure if that is the idle fuel consumption of an idling engine because I don't have that gauge in my machine; but I thought that is good enough.

gauges at idling

After all, it is really a pleasure for a chance of driving a 240 back, after months of not driving it! Good day all :)

History of Volvo

2008-11-06T22:46:00.000+08:00

Its good to know the root of the machine we are driving now :)

Eid Mubarak

2008-10-06T10:22:00.003+08:00

Dear Muslim readers,

I would like to wish all Muslim readers Happy Eidulfitri (Eid Mubarak). May Allah bless us and accept all our ibadah for the last one month of Ramadhan and bring happiness in this Syawal. Drive safely during this festival season :)

KAMI The Movie!

2008-10-05T20:56:00.003+08:00

Finally, in Malaysia film industry, a VOLVO 240 being featured as a star! Last night I went to a friend's house where his friend did some nostalgic talks on their 'teenange' days; how he and his friends rode-on a VOLVO 240! Then I started to remember about this newly born film.

I haven't got any chance yet to watch this film, but the scenery of youths driving a VOLVO 240 really attract me to watch it, sooner or later. Nowadays, it is a common scene in Malaysia to see youngsters and college students driving a 240; most probably inherited from our parents. The resale value is damn low, the car is damn reliable that it still continue running after decades, our parents get damn bored already with the car and getting new cars, so the best option is to givi it to the children! The most cost effective & safest method to help the children to travel :)

Square Type Headlamp

2008-09-03T22:01:00.003+08:00

A friend send this photo off. What a nice square type headlamp fixed onto this car. For Malaysian market, there is no such headlamp. We just have a big full square headlamp for all 200 series. I was told that the lamp was imported from USA. A friend who used to live in USA brought it back to Malaysia, and damn! Very nice!

This car still be driven by the original 2.1 244GL engine. However it used the latest 240 autobox, and got all 4 windows powered.

p/s - thanks Kay for the picture.

New Clutch Pumps :)

2008-08-04T18:17:00.002+08:00

Both clutch pump failed last month. Please find below details;

Symptoms;

While changing gears, I could feel that the clutch/gear engaged quickly with even a slight release of the clutch pedal.
Up to my horror, when I was at a parking bay, I depressed the clutch pedal but the car continue to move! Slam on the brake and got the car stopped (of course the engine dead). Only after shutting off the engine, that the gear could be freed & changed! However, I managed to travel home safely.
The clutch DOT4 fluid keep depleting. I was having a difficult time to really see where is the leaks. It was very minor that the slave pump got the fluids leaked.

Got a Volvo mechanic to do on-site job at my house compound area. Unfortunately I was not there when he changed both the pumps. He found that both pumps were 'seized' and suggested to change it. The quoted price was pretty high for us, but we have no much choice since the car cannot move already. After all he did a pretty good job, very tidy installation I could say.

Just Another Regular Service :)

2008-06-29T00:21:00.002+08:00

Another regular service. Since I moved to Labuan, the car rarely moves. My dad use it for night groceries time, going to & back from the mosque, and other short distance journey. Believe it or not, after last service around November 2007, the odometer just clocked 3000km. Thanks to me who drove it all around the country when I went back home. Good thing about the car, it still operates smoothly. It was just getting dirty as it was parked under a tree!

Just let it have some fresh shower & shine again before got it serviced.

Thus, just another regular service. Got the same engine oil Petronas Synthium 800 Semi-Synthetic, oil filter, and all plugs changed.

Gimmick! Owh the car burnt!

A SPEED TRAP!!

2008-04-19T12:58:00.004+08:00

My mom just called asking for money to bank-in; i started to wonder why?? I just got traffic ticket sent to my house; A SPEED TRAP!!

I was caught cruising at 130km/h while the highway speed limit is 110km/h during recent trip to Penang with the new Yokohama tyre. Is it the tyre to be blamed?? The tyre was damn silent even I cruise up to 130km/h, bless the old Silverstone with speed warning noise... eheheheh...

A big loss for my pocket this month! Aiseyh :(

p/s - not my picture;

New Yokohama Tyres!

2008-03-23T06:14:00.002+08:00

Last week, the car got 2 pieces of new tyres. The old Silverstone Kruizer had badly worn out. The initial intention was to replace it with Goodyear tyres. However the dealer said that Goodyear tyres were out of stock.

As I am going for a long trip the next day, I really need to get the tyre changed on the day. So the only stock left is the Yokohama A Drive tyres. Got it changed, and some alignment works were done. It was badly out of alignment.

The next day is the review day! I cruised up on the highway heading north of Peninsular Malaysia at average speed of 120km/h. I went up to the maximum speed of 150km/h at times. Overall, I am satisfied with the tyre performance.

the tyres grip very well, I can feel as if the tyre is sticking on the road even while raining and with wet road surface
noise and vibration was really eliminated as per compared with the old Silverstone Kruizer
handling is good, lighter steering feel

Please bear in mind, usually new tyres will always feel good. Because of the soft new rubber and the fresh thread. It is not fair to directly compare new tyres with the old ones.

Good day all :)

Why 240 So Special ??

2008-01-19T17:56:00.000+08:00

As time passes, this model had 'classic' in the modern people's eyes and hearts. But driving one, you will always defend the car that with quotes that others will definitely deny. Examples of quotes; "i had never drove a car with such good handling like this 240, even the new generation of Volvos"; "this car is a computerized, even its ignition is regulated electronically"; "the car saves fuel"; "to maintain the car is very easy & cheap" & etc.

In this post, I would like to highlight the facts & figures of why this Volvo 240 is so special; in terms of its' technology advancement and technical specifications, of which among the items, there are still things that cannot be found on modern vehicles. Please do bear in mind that all these technologies had been used since 1970s!

1 - Braking power varies with speed.

This is one of the safety features of this car. Your 240 should react like this; the faster you drive, the more braking power you have. For instance, when you are driving slowly around town area, you need to apply brake a bit harder to have the braking effect. However, when you are driving on a highway with speed excess of 100km/h, you will find that you need to apply less to get more braking power (apply less on the pedal, but the braking is more).

2 - Collapsible steering column.

The steering column of this car is not though! It can collapse into parts! Why? In the event of accident, the U-joints on the steering column is designed to break away, and even some area inside the column and the steering itself designed to collapse. This to ensure that the steering will not hit the driver; given that he fasten his seat belt!

3 - Day running lights (DRLs).

Yes, this feature applies to certain model in certain country. I feel very lucky to drive one with DRL. It is very important to be able to see & to be able to be seen clearly as well. This feature provides 6 times more visibility of your vehicle to the other road users.

4 - Triangle-shape brake circuit.

Generally, cars will have 2 circuit brakes. And generally, one circuit will be connected to 2 tyres each. Volvo invented that this model use triangle-shape brake circuit where each circuit holds 3 tyres (in triangle shape circuit, 2 front tyres & 1 RHS rear tyre + 2 front tyres & 1 LHS rear tyre). The main purpose of having this setup is if either one of the circuit fails, the car still have 80% of the braking power.

5 - Less flank angle windshield.

You may have noticed that 240 have rather 'straight' windshield. The advantage; the vision is less affected during rainy days due to the less angle & surface area. Less drops have a chance to even drop on the surface of the windshield itself. However, this setup is beleived to decrease fuel efficiency because it is not aero-dynamic and creates wind drag.

I guess this is all for now. There's a lot more to be written here, but let it be saved for later posts. See you soon guys. Good day :)

FINALLY: New Bumper & Tail Lamps!

2007-12-09T12:24:00.000+08:00

Guys, finally I got the broken bumper and tail lamps changed last week due to the accident happened in August. Was too busy to send in the car until last weekend. As the car exceeds 5 years old, we have to pay 40% of the total cost for the new parts. The rest is taken care by the insurance company. Thumbs-up for AIG for its' assistance.

I sent the car early morning and pick it back around 4pm. I then brought it for a complete car wash, including engine wash. Awesome, the gloom is back, especially for the rear end which was very ugly for the past few months.

Sadly, I am moving out from my hometown. I have been posted to work in Labuan, Sabah. The gloom, and nice car, I left it to the original owner; my dad! This blog will always remind me of the car; even I don't know how it is now in KL. :)

Major Service!

2007-11-18T10:25:00.000+08:00

Hi, it's been a while since I last post in here about the 240's maintenance or repair. So yesterday, I got the car for MAJOR SERVICE which nearly cost me thousand bucks;

PROBLEM

First, I got splashes of oil around the air-cond compressor, it dripped down to the anti splash pan, and further down to anti-sway bar and brake lines. I am very suspicious at the moment I found the splash as my power steering fluid did not decrease, nor the brake and clutch; and my aircond works well too.

Second, I got 'tok-tok' knocking sound when starting the engine. Thought it came from loose rubber mounting on exhaust; but it was actually the engine mounting.

Third, I got some vibration and vibration noise when turning right; also due to engine mounting and cracked timing belt inner cover plastic which made contact with the pulley.

SO WHAT HAVE BEEN DONE

First, upon troubleshooting, it was confirmed that the leak came from the air-cond compressor. So, have to take out the air-cond compressor and change the worn seals and gaskets.

Next is major service. The work done includes changing timing belt, the timing oil seal, change drive belts as well, change engine mounting, as well as engine oil change.

PICTURES

Taking the compressor down.

The picture above shows that the oil seal have started to leak. Thus, I decided to change all of the oil seals as well.

Upon opening up timing belt and its' cover. Wow, so dirty. The mechanic did clean them thoroughly using a brush and water since they are just cumulated dusts.

New oil seals in. See how clean it is after the cleaning done.

New inner cover plastic.

How bad the engine mounting were.

RESULTS

No more 'tok-tok' knocking sound, no more vibration when turning right, and no more humming noise at 80km/h. Next will be the transmission system and suspension system.

Good Day :)

GPS In 240!!

2007-09-28T22:24:00.000+08:00

This is a story of an old car having a new car features. I am very sure that most of you have heard about Global Positioning System (GPS). Using satellite, this GPS technology enable a real time tracking to be done. In countries such as France, GPS had been used in cars. And even some new cars have this GPS features built-in in them. So now, how do I have GPS in Malaysia; in this old brick (which definitely have no such thing as LCD stuffs).

First of all, credit to my dad who gave me chance to know and get to use GPS. He went to France about a year ago when he started to appreciate how feasible to have a GPS system inside a car. To have GPS, simple and basic things that you must have is a device that is able to transmit and receive data to and from the satellite (which can be called as navigator or transceiver), and an interface device that have software and maps to indicate your location such as a hand phone, laptop, or PDA.

In my case, I am using a HP iPAQ PDA which runs with Windows Mobile 5.0 and a GARMIN GPS 10 navigator (transceiver). The GARMIN GPS 10 navigator is connected to the PDA using Bluetooth. Note that you can also used PalmOS based PDA.

How about the software?? The software comes along with the GARMIN navigator. Maps?? The software given by GARMIN is a navigation software and of course it needs database or maps. Let say you stay in Malaysia, you definitely need to put in Malaysia's map into your handheld so that the software can use it. Maps for countries such as US and UK are expected to be available anywhere on the net. I am focusing on Malaysia's scenario. Maps for Malaysia & Singapore is available at Malsing (http://www.malsingmaps.com/portal/). Just download and follow the instructions or details on the portal. There's a lot of mappers and GPSers there.

Then, just turn on the Bluetooth on my PDA, turn on GARMIN GPS 10, and let the software track my location first before i start searching for places. I can enter name of roads, city, or even places of interests such as mosques, names of buildings, nearest petrol station. The software also provides route preference features; you might want to skip U-turn and want to choose the least distance route. It also have voice direction which is really handful because you cannot take a look at the map all the time while driving. Yes, definitely it will take about few days before you can really understand and handle the software properly; practices make perfect.

For me, I need to use this device as my current job need me to get all over customer's place on time, so that I can complete my job for the day. Believe it or not, all was done by GPS. I have to go to Bangsar area, Damansara Heights which I don't really familiar with. Sometimes GPS will asked me to go through housing estates and small roads, and before you know it,the building that you want to find is in front of you :)

Where to get this GARMIN device?? There is a GPS shop in Low Yat Plaza, I forgot which floor but this shop sells GPS related products only. I believe he can assist you as he assisted us; from hardware selection, software, and maps.

OK, may this post click up your mind to have a GPS system. Oh before I end-up, this GPS is FREE! Why FREE?? Because there is no service provider. GARMIN GPS 10 is only a transceiver device, and the rest is done by the software, so why pay??

More details?? Just drop me an email...Good Day :)

Brake Booster Failure :)

2007-09-17T20:14:00.000+08:00

After all, today is the time for the brake booster / servo pump to fail. The first symptom I got early this morning is when I brake while driving down a slope, with just a little braking power, the tires jammed and skid for a short while before it stopped. From that point of time, I have suspected that something is not right somewhere, but then I just continue traveling to the office. Everything seems normal.

Then I have to go out to the customer's place. Driving just outside the office, while braking at a traffic light, I felt the brake became harder and engine tremble vigorously if the brake being applied hardly. I could also hear hissing vacuum leak sound. Luckily there's one VOLVO mechanic around that area and I just passed by to have him rectify that it is the servo problem.

Got it changed (BOSCH brand) this morning also :) Whew, I got back the feeling of driving a VOLVO with good braking power :) It's quite simple to DIY, but with time limitation, I just let the mechanic do.....

Stucked In Mud ??

2007-09-06T22:08:00.000+08:00

If you got into mud, what to do?? First, don't panic and keep revving and rotating the tyre because it will just get things worse. Second, gather some friends, make sure enough member to push the car out of the mud slowly. Then only get into the car, and speed off from the area quickly.

GOOD LUCK!!

p/s - 240 is damn heavy to push to get out from mud, believe me.... we were really exhausted that day after pushing one 240, one Kia, and one MPV!

NICE MAN!!!

GET CAR WASH TO DO THE CLEANING... DON'T MESS UP YOUR OWN PORCH :)

Treasure Hunt 2007 :)

2007-08-12T23:30:00.001+08:00

Yeah, this is the second treasure hunt I joined. Although with an ugly looking bumper, we still continue our treasure hunting program. At this moment, please do enjoy the pictures first. Details will be online later perhaps.

Good Day :))

Accident :(

2007-08-12T23:14:00.000+08:00

Last Friday, in Kuala Lumpur, I met an accident. I was on Jalan Hang Tuah, stopped and waiting for the RED lights. Everybody were happy at that moment in their stationary cars. All of sudden, BANG!! I got myself pulled to the back, I realized my things on the dash compartment area gone! Ooooppsss... I looked back through the rear-view mirror, I saw an uncle in a Perodua Viva rubbing his head. I moved my car aside a little bit, then I switch off the engine, I came down from the car and the first thing I go and see is the 240's back. Bumper got tears, LHS rear tail-lamp get off from its bracket, and all chrome linings were down on the road. I really pissed-off!

But then, I saw the uncle in Perodua Viva got blood flowing from his forehead, he keeps wiping it with his tissue, then the mood changed into sympathy. The story did not end there when I discovered that the Viva was also being hit by a Proton Waja before it hits this brick. Again, I am really sorry for the poor uncle, whose brand new Viva got sandwiched. We then just proceed to the nearest police station and make reports.

So what happened to the brick?? Interior parts also affected because of the impact. First, the glove box got itself opened upon impact and RHS hinge broke. All cassette, papers, and pen inside the glove box thrown out to the front passenger seat. Exterior parts includes the bumper got tears, LHS tail-lamp bracket broke, cracks on both tail-lamp, and all rear chrome linings fall down on the road.

It is a very memorable experience, as this is my first time road accident after 5 years of driving. Take care guys :)

p/s - i think 240 may have the pre-whiplash system, because at the moment of impact, the seat support me well as if they were saying "relax zhafri, we are supporting you!"

Volvo 240 in Top Gear

2007-06-17T11:38:00.000+08:00

VOLVO 240 FOR SALE.... a hard time huh??

2007-06-11T23:38:00.000+08:00

Its time to let go the car. Selling reason?? Maybe to get a new car. Details of the car are as follows;

Specifications;
2316cc
Solex Cisac Carburetor
Manual M47 Transmission
Petrol

Problems;
-long shaft vibrating at 80kmh
-rear gearbox oil seal need to be changed
-ignition key spring sometimes just did not pull back by itself
-boot rubber seal might need replacement

Privileges;
-full service record available
-serviced only by Volvo authorised mechanics only
-odometer fixed
-new original tail lamps
-new taiwan made headlight reflectors
-new taiwan made sidelamps
-stock Day Running Lights
-new recond aircond compressor

Feel free to browse thorugh this blog for more info and pics on this car. Just drop me a message if you are interested. Thank you :)

Thank You Very Much Guys :)

2007-05-18T01:53:00.000+08:00

Thank you very much for your support. I was shocked when I Googled for 'volvo 240 speedometer sensor' and the first result is 'VOLVO 240LIVE!'....I would like to thank all of you, visitors and supporters who frequently visit this blog. There is no better word for me to express "THANK YOU VERY MUCH"....

Notes on Speedometer Sensor

2007-04-15T10:50:00.000+08:00

Short note on the location of the Speedometer Sensor and its' wiring harness on the rear axle. It will be better to check this part first if the speedometer and odometer do not function at all; check for wire conditions, ensure socket is intact. Below is how the sensor look alike.

Good Luck :)

Speedometer Sensor Transmission Checked!!

2007-04-01T18:25:00.000+08:00

Last week I got a call from a friend, asking to check for his speedometer. His 1991 240SE's speedometer did not work since he bought the car. I forgot to ask about the odometer, but theoretically, odometer might also stopped. I haven't checked his car yet, but from that day I was very curious to know how could I check for speedometer signal transmission from the rear axle to the circuit board is OK. This is because it was quite popular that I heard on 940s, and some 240s that the connections at the rear axle had ruptured.

I have done the measurement on the 240 I drive. You guys might want to do this first if your speedometer do not work. It might just be bad connections from the sensor rather than a broken instrument board. Steps to dismantle the instrument cluster may be referred from this link (http://www.hyperocity.com/volvo240/volvoodometer.htm).

See below illustration. After the instrument cluster got removed, find for the 3 wires with L-shape connector as shown in the picture. Note that wire color codes have been changed in later models, however it still serve the same purpose.

Then, using an analog multimeter (can use any type of multimeter, even an oscilloscope), connect the -/COM lead to the BLACK wire terminal, and the + lead to the BLUE wire. Note that the RED wire supply voltage for the board, because we are not connecting the board, leave it. BLUE wire is transmitting signals from the speedo sensor.

I set my multimeter to read AC voltage as follows;

Start the car, and get moving, slowly. You should be able to see the multimeter readings increasing with the speed of your car. This indicates that the signals from the speedo sensor at the axle was fine. If with this condition, still the speedometer do not work, I suspect the instrument board itself must be checked.

Good Luck :)

Power Windows Serviced!!

2007-03-10T20:16:00.000+08:00

Another DIY session to share with. It has been months since the driver side power window gave some musical beat when it was in motion. It sounds like this; 'tak...tak...tak...' and it seems that its getting slower and hard to move. See the below video to listen the 'tak...tak...tak...'. Until one morning last week, the power window can barely wind-up, I decided to get it serviced that evening. Here is the details of how I got it serviced (and the door lock too).

Below is the step-by-step of what I did, from dismantle the door panel, until showing up the power window parts needed to be service. Equipments & tools needed are just flat and philips screw driver, 10mm spanner, and the good WD40. Don't forget to have piece of rag with you to clean up the things.

1-REMOVE TRIM

Remove the door lock trim by squeeze it up a little bit. The lower part will then be disengaged from the panel. The same should be done to the upper part (squeeze down a little bit).

This is how it looks like after the trim removal.

2-REMOVE DOOR POCKET

Notice the location of the flat type plastic pins. There are 3 such pins altogether at the lower part of the door pocket. Remove them by using a flat screw driver and turn until 90 degrees only. Keep them in safe place.

Gently push up the end of the door pocket. This may be hard, especially if this is the first time. But believe me, it can pry out when you push it up from the screw holder. Just a bit patient and don't knock it hard from the below side. The illustration above gives exactly how your hand should be placed when prying up the door pocket off from the screws. Do this for both right and left ends.

Once the prying up successfully done, turn the door pocket about 45 until 90 degrees as shown above. This will help to disengage the center hold from the door panel.

Then remove both right and left philips screws. Again, keep them is a safe place.

3-REMOVE ARM REST & POWER WINDOW UNIT

Using small flat screw driver, pry off gently the screw covers, 2 of them.

Using a philips screw driver, unscrew the arm rest holding screw. There are 3 of them. Again put them in a safe place. At this level, the arm rest is detached from the door panel, however the upper holder is still hanged on to the panel. Let it be there for a moment.

Lift the power window switch unit to the right. This will detach the unit from the arm rest.

To completely remove the arm rest, slowly turn it as shown above until approximately 90 degrees. You may want to slowly pry it off from the door panel while turning the arm rest unit. The locking mechanism of this arm rest can be seen and self-explained after you got it off.

The next step is to remove the power window unit wire sockets. You may want to jot down the sockets location for proper re installation later.

4-REMOVE DOOR PANEL

Remove the door knob by turning it in counter clockwise direction.

Using small flat screw driver, run through the door panel to see which part is being clipped. Do this slowly. Caution should be taken as the old door panel might be brittle enough and breaks easily.

Pry off the clips using the small falt screw driver. Do this all around the door panel, and remove all clips.

Then, starting form the right end, lift up the door panel, then slightly to the right. It should glides off easily. Note that carefully take off the power window wire socket one by one through the wiring holes, so that the panel is completely off from the door.

This is how it looks like so far.

To access the power window mechanism, remove the white plastic cover.

5-SERVICE THE POWER WINDOW!!

This is the power window mechanism. The power window motor is located at the most below of the door. You might want to take this chance to tighten up the two 10mm nuts that hold the power window motor. Reinstall the power window switch unit for further test purposes. Power on the ignition key, and test the power window, move it up and down to see where is the flaw.

In my case, the 'tak..tak..tak' sound came from the metal round coil. What I did is just to spray the metal coil with WD40. I used quite a lot of WD40, until brownish residues comes out. Move the power window up and down while spraying the WD40. You might also want to take this chance to apply WD40 on the door lock mechanism as well. Clean up the door area after you have done with the job. Installation is just reverse of removal procedures.

The results?? I got a silent power window moving up and down, also lighter door lock. And very happy with the results. GOOD LUCK :))

VOLVO 240 LIVE!! FACELIFTED :)

2007-01-29T14:24:00.000+08:00

Hi all. VOLVO 240 LIVE!! is under some minor 'facelifing' process. Have fun on the new layouts and facelift made. Any suggestions or feedbacks, just leave your feedbacks on this page.

Enjoy :)

Replacing Center Dash Bulbs

2007-01-08T22:06:00.001+08:00

I just changed my center dash bulbs this afternoon. There are 3 bulbs altogether in there that look like the below picture.

OK, lets jump straight to how to replace the instrument bulb. I did these procedures in less than half an hour. If you are a beginner, it may consume more than that, but don't worry, this is just a simple stuff. Here are the procedures. I made in point forms and with some pictures as a guide;

-First, remove screws (philips type) and clips that hold the center dash with the side kick panel for both left and right hand side. I marked them with 'A' and 'B' on the picture. If you are unsure of where these screws and clips are, it was located just under the steering column area and the glove box area.

-Then, remove another 2 screws (philips type) located just below the radio compartmet (if you installed your radio there) or just parallel to the gear stick. I labelled them as 'C' and 'D' on the picture.

-At this point you may bring forward the center dash slowly. It doesn't need to be taken out. All wires attached to it also need not to be disconnected. Just bring the dash forward to allow some room to access those bulbs. Browse trough for BLACK & BROWN wires, they hold the bulb socket. Once you identified the socket, you can just pull it forward out from the dash. Given that there is a lot of wires going around that area, it is best done by using a long nose plier. There are 3 such sockets and bulbs; behind the TEMP knob, behind the FAN SWITCH KNOB, and above the HAZARD BUTTON row. Pull them out of that hairwire area to enable a more comfortable working environment, as shown in the pictures. Again, no need to disconnect any wires!

-Then it is just a straight forward task. Pull the bulb out from the socket. It might be quite tight in there, but not extremely tight. Just use your fingers. Be patient, thats all. Install replacement bulbs and test them by turning on the parking lamp, they should turn on. Then just reassemble everything. Reassemble is just reverse the disassembling process :))

Guys, this is just a guide, of course I may not be able to take pictures on each and every single tiny miny stuffs, common sense is enough. Anything just contact me. GOOD LUCK!!

The Air-Cond Saga Done...

2006-12-13T07:07:00.000+08:00

It was just exactly a month later after I pump-in refrigerant after no-cold aircond as per explained in previous posts, and the air-cond started to acted up back. Luckily, it happened while I am at home, so I can just go to my favourite air-cond man rather than the air-cond guy near my campus.

I told the air-cond man that it was just 1 month time before all gas leaked out. He asked if I have something 'smelly' from the air-cond vent, the answer is NO. If there was some 'smelly' stuff, it may indicate that the cooling coil have leakages. However he insisted that this Volvo 240 cooling coil rarely leaks, but due to old age, nothing is impossible.

He and his assistant proceed to conduct some sort of compression test by putting gas on the system. They read from the pressure gauge that there was a leak. Theay used some soapy foam, apply them all over the hoses to find the leakage but to no avail. The air-cond man then decided to just run the compression test on the compressor only. Confirmed! Compressor got leakages. He recommended me to overhaul the compressor, change all seals, gaskets, and o-rings. They did it in about 2 hours and everything settled.

The main symptom of leaking compressor is that you can always see oil on the magnetic clutch area, and also some oil residue in the engine bay nearby the compressor. Actually this is a recond-unit compressor which I just changed slightly about a year ago, and I know now that the compressor supplied to me is not that good. However, am happy with the air-cond system now! :))

p/s - this is not my real compressor..ehehehhe...

My Steering/Front Tyres Chattering While Braking At High Speed

2006-12-06T21:44:00.000+08:00

OK, the symptom is simple and could mislead to other problem. The main symptom is when the car is moving at high speed, range from 70km/h and above, and sudden brake is needed, the steering wheel chatters. It was obviously felt that front tyres vibrate vigorously. Brought the car to a mechanic, he test drive the car and insist if nothing is wrong with the brake lines, or anything of the front tyres, then it may be the brake disc itself. However upon checking, he jacked up the car and we found out that the front tyre have some freeplay (when you try to push in and out at the same time, show loseness). Then he suspected it was the tie-rod assembly, both sides. The tie rod assembly is covered under the black protection boot. See figures below. Got them changed, and test drive, YAHOO!! Solved. The logic behind this troubleshooting is that, the other end of the rod is connected to the tyres while the other part (with bearings) connected to the main rod. When we brake, the other end will have to stop while the other end have numerous freeplay that enable it to move vigourously due to the braking force/shock. And remember that an alignment work is needed after tie rod works done.

S40 Test Drive

2006-11-25T13:49:00.000+08:00

First of all, in this blog I just want to briefly share my S40 test drive experience. Just to be short and precise. What did I think of S40??

1-In cabin noise in obvious, even my 240 have less noise. This is not a joke. I posted this on a Volvo Club Forum and one of the S40 owner told me that it was because of the factory fitted tyres. He just changed it into another brand and happy with it!

2-Power and responsiveness was great. I love to use the 'Manual MODE' of the shiftronic transmission. Yeah, logic!

3-Ergonomically perfect. This is the most important feature I'll look around with new cars.

4-Handling? I am not sure, but I somehow rather feel that 240 grip the road firmer, 240 have more solid handling though, not to be biased! Maybe S40 is a FWD, while 240 is a RWD with 'live rear axle', maybe...

5-If i got that amount of money, will I buy S40?? At this point of time, maybe NOT. I think better get a Honda Accord or Toyota Camry brand new for cheaper price, not bad performance, comfort also, and the most important part in my judgement is they are bigger than S40...eheheheh....

All in all I think S40 is not for luxuriness, but for sportiness! Good Day :)

Top-Up Aircond Gas

2006-11-06T22:32:00.000+08:00

I got my aircond gas top-up by a local aircond shop. Reason being is just that it started to feel warm. I recalled that my last service was done on March this year, so its just about eight month of usage. I told the aircond man and suggest that there might be leaks anywhere. Then he told me that if in any case there is a leak; which take almost eight month to diminish the gas, the leak must be a very small leak and no point of him tracing it down as it will be very tiny and difficult to trace. Thus he suggest that we top-up the gas first, and if the gas reduces significantly, then the hunt begins! Paid RM20 for gas top-up...Update later.

p/s - Thanks Mr Fadli for the great photos!

Two million miles in a Volvo P1800

2006-10-17T17:20:00.000+08:00

In 1998, The Guinness Book of World Records honoured Irv Gordon's Volvo P1800 as the vehicle with the "the highest certified mileage driven by the original owner in non-commercial service". Today, Gordon is breaking his own world record every time he drives his celebrated car.

"Of the 260 million vehicles on the road in the United States, only a handful have accumulated one million miles, and until now, none have made it to two million," said Dan Werbin, president and chief executive officer for Volvo Cars of North America. "We like to say that 'there are cars, and then there are Volvos,' but there is more involved here than the wisdom of our engineers in developing a car that could last so long and travel so far. Irv's meticulous care of his Volvo over the years has played a significant role.'

Ten Tips To Help Make Your Car Last Two Million Miles – by Irv Gordon

1. Start with a car you like.
2. Change your oil and filter regularly.
3. Use factory equipment parts.
4. Use one brand of oil.
5. Spend a few minutes a week checking under the hood.
6. Wash your car regularly.
7. Wax at least twice a year.
8. Develop a good working relationship with your dealer and mechanic.
9. Use gasoline from a high volume station.
10. When your car makes a funny noise, listen to it.

p/s - this post was adapted from VCC Malaysia website.

Oil Pressure Sensor Wire Kaput ??

2006-10-17T17:07:00.000+08:00

Oil Pressure light went off?? Do not panic. Me and my friend who drives the same 240 faced exactly the same issue past months. First, I thought the bulb itself has blown. But because of time constraint, I just left it like that. Though I know that the oil pressure warning light is important because anything can just happen to your oil engine, be it massive leaking whatsoever. Upon checking around the oil pressure sensor (just beside your oil filter), found out the connecting wires went kaput. It can be obviously seen it was oxidized and getting cut by itslef through time. Simple solution; took it to an auto electrician and connect it back. SIMPLE! The warning light comes back and now I am happy :)

Just for interest, I put here the picture of the oil pressure sensor, yeah it is a simple sensor I think.

2006-10-14T14:17:00.000+08:00

When Its Gone

2006-10-04T18:17:00.000+08:00

OK guys, no car for almost three weeks now. Nice man. Sometimes we have to learn about hardships by experiencing it. We can always symphatise on poor or disabled individuals. I was lucky to experienced the hardship; no money, no car, walk all along under the hot sun, less food, in hunger. Oh Allah, its nice man, really. Try it! Hopefully next week I will drive back the car.

p/s - my dad driving it now..... the below pix was during my very first meet up with Mark1 of VOCM, yeah he drives a B230K also :)

Transmission Calculator - Z Design Studio

2006-09-17T17:09:00.000+08:00

Transmission Calculator! Yeah, this is a very good tool. I used this online calculator to check out what is the maximum speed at certain rpm this car (or any other car can go). It is very simple. Key in the gear ratios, and rear differential ration. Key in also your tyre size and the desired rpm. A graph will be plotted. From this graph, one can obtained how mph the car could get in corresponding rpm. Log in to this site --> http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html

From http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/1989/1989_240/89240_04.htm#pg99, I obtained full specifications for this 1989 240. The gearbox used for this model is the M47 II (manual transmission) with following gear ratios;

1st gear 4.03:1
2nd gear 2.16:1
3rd gear 1.37:1
4th gear 1.00:1
5th gear 0.82:1
Reverse 3.68:1
Rear axle reduction ratio: 3.31:1

I just put up all the above values, plus the tyre size of 185/70/14, and;
rpm of 4000 rpm, the max speed calculated at 5th gear is 106mph or 170.6kmh,
rpm of 4500 rpm, the max speed calculated at 5th gear is 119mph or 191.5kmh.

The question is how accurate this calculation will be? Yeah, I am pretty sure this car is able to reach that given that at 3500 to about 3800rpm, it can reach up to 150 to 160 kmh. There are so many lagging factor which contribute to some reduction from those calculated values. It may include the wind drag, engine wear and tear, tyres condition, suspension system and so on so forth. But its good to know that 240 can run that speed :)

BATTERY TERMINALS !!

2006-09-04T17:01:00.000+08:00

Hi guys! Its sad to tell that my hard disk crashed, all VOLVO related pictures, videos, even some pdf documents gone, just like that. OK, for this post, I am going to enlighten on battery terminal placement issue. Tribute goes to Mr Mark for enlightening me on this.

VOLVO 240 originally comes with DIN type of battery. This type of battery basically have lower height of terminals, therefore the chances of getting them short is very low. For this matter also, please take note that the terminal allocation for DIN battery is that, the negative terminal will be beside the fender wall while the positive terminal be beside the air filter box. The main reason between this is that to ensure that if accident occurs, and the fender wall dented into the engine compartment, and hit the battery, they do not shorted because of common ground points between the firewall itself and the negative terminal of the battery. (NOTE:Car body act as ground).

However, the popular NS battery (I have been using now) have reverse polarity allocation of the terminals. This is dangerous as if accident occurs, the fender might get in contact with the positive terminals and they will get SHORTED! This will then produce sparks and some sort of fire likely will occur. Again this is VERY DANGEROUS! Yeah, I am warning myself and you all. As the battery was new, very new, I am planning to cover the terminals and hope for the best. So guys, give extra attention when you change your next battery. GOOD DAY :)

First time ever TREASURE HUNTING :)

2006-08-21T17:31:00.000+08:00

Treasure Hunt experience. This is the first time ever I drive this car into a Treasure Hunt. The most scary part was to put stickers on it. It was hard to get convinced that the sticker could be peeled off easily. YES, IT DID!! ALHAMDULILLAH. In this Treasure Hunt organised by the ConvoFair committe of my university; we create an ally of 4 cars. Yeah, my car is the only non-Malaysian car, the most heavy car, the oldest car in the clan. What is the advantage of driving this car in hunt?? The turning radius!! U-turn here & there is a no no problem at all, swing! My car did not win. However 3 others got fourth, third, and second place. Yeah, they took us as an ally, so they kindfully share the prizes. Thanks guys.

This car managed to going up and down hill, tested in sharp corners on country roads. Yeah, great. Total distance travelled is nearly 300km. From UTP, Tronoh, the hunt ended in Taiping. Then we proceed to Bukit Larut for 'express' vacation. Small hiking there, and have fun at the waterfall. Then, going back to UTP. It was about 12 hours of driving, oh man, its tiring my eyes. Conclusively, its fun :)

VOLVO's Oil Filter Piracy :(

2006-08-16T15:04:00.000+08:00

To indicate whether the oil filter is original or not is not that difficult, though they are tricky. One can only be very sure of whether the oil filter installed is genuine part or not only after they start the engine, obviously if the oil filter is not the genuine one; NO CHOICE!!

Locally, in Malaysia, I have found few types of oil filters being sold;

Genuine VOLVO oil filter. The price of this filter may vary from RM25 and above. To recognize this filter is simple, it was labelled with VOLVO logo and some instructions, in DARK BLUE color! Again, to really sure, after installation, the oil pressure warning light will get off immediately after starting. This is because this genuine oil filter is fitted with oil pressure check valve that will maintain the oil pressure (so the light will not turn on).
MADE IN MALAYSIA, FAKED! This oil filter look pretty same as the original filter. It have VOLVO logo and the same printed instructions on it, but the text is FADED & in LIGHT BLUE color. Using this filter, the oil pressure warning light will remain on the dash for a few seconds after the engine started. This filter may priced between RM16-RM17.
MANN brand oil filter. This may be an alternative for original VOLVO filters. It may cost around RM20.
Japan branded! This is the cheapest oil filter I have ever found claimed to suit VOLVOs. I have been offered RM7 only for this filter. Dare not to use it.

Why using original oil filter is very crucial? Did you realized that for 240, using mineral engine oil, the service interval is 10,000km! I have contacted Federal Auto, they confirmed this. Even until now, they keep the 10,000km service interval for 240s using mineral or semi-synthetic engine oil. This is where original oil filter play its role, good filtering! I have once used the MADE IN MALAYSIA filter, its just 5000km and the engine oil was so nice dark! And from then, I not dare to use any other brand of oil filter besides genuine one. GOOD LUCK!!

Mineral to Semi Synthetic.....

2006-08-12T17:51:00.000+08:00

The 240 just get engine oil changed. We have decided to migrate from mineral based oil to semi-synthethis engine oil. For this service, I have to be independent; source out parts by myself and send for an independent mechanic to carry out the job.

I got oil filters from Ecco Trading Ipoh (VOLVO parts dealer). I also got washers for engine oil cap and drain plug from them. The engine oil used is the PETRONAS Syntium 800 Semi Synthethic 15W-50. We decided to stick on this brand for coming services. So from now on, I expect oil change to be done every 10,000km, meaning that only twice a year!!

VOLTAGE REGULATOR ISSUE...

2006-07-29T20:43:00.000+08:00

Starting from last week these lights keep blinking.. They light up dimly, not so bright. If you did not really see them, you may not notice them. Upon rev up, those lights will slowly goes off. The lights are;

Then last night, I notice from car charging condition LEDs that I installed to 12V cigarette socket show no charging activity. Those LEDs was very useful since this model doesn't equipped with in-dash voltmeter. The car survived the journey, accesories started to dim off and wiper motor slowed down remarkably. Upon parking, the car dies, cannot restart again. To my wonder, with 10V showed on multimeter this morning, I managed to get it started. Drive to the nearest auto electrical shop and diagnosed with faulty voltage regulator. Changed it and there it is, the battery got charged again!!

SOLEX CARBURETOR DIAPHRAGM FIXED :)

2006-07-29T20:22:00.000+08:00

For a few weeks, nearly month I noticed that my fuel consumption started to rise up. Petrol fume also can be obviously smelt somewhere around the carburetter. Until one day I notice that there was a leakage at one of the 'square shape mini pump' of the Solex Carburetor. Upon referring to Haynes Manual, it was called as Fuel Pump, refer to the exploded diagram, the whole unit assembly is labelled from no. 72, 73, 74, 75, 76. Obviously, upon rev up, petrol clearly seen to seep out through this mini petrol pump.

I did survey few workshop for this 'critical mission'. I was shocked when told that I have to skim the carburetor base. They claimed that the carburetor might have warped, thats why leakages happened. Lastly I when to see the late mechanic's assistant. He suggested it might be only seals or gaskets or maybe diaphragms. I love simple ideas, so I went to him.

The square pump secured by 4 flat screw. Upon unscrew of all this 4 screw, the assembly will then exposed the assembly. We found out that the diaphragm had worn out. Test with engine oil; pour it into the diaphragm and see if leaks occurs. The diaphragm is labelled as 73, but it comes in one package, both 73 and 74. Bought it from Yonit, local VOLVO and SCANIA parts dealer for RM145 for both diaphragm and the spring. Change it and refit the whole assembly back, very simple work. No special expertise needed for this job I guess.

The accelerator get powerful back now, no petrol leaks, no losses. Tested on highway, owh, to get below 130km/h even with light footed acceleration is not that easy. :)

*FYI Solex Carburetor have 3 diaphragms in total.

Relax, entertain yourselves :)

2006-07-10T22:19:00.000+08:00

Hi guys. It have been a while wihout new posts here. A lot of incidents happened around my life. With the death of our mechanic, the episode of sadness covered up my mind when my uncle (who share the same passionate and own a 240SE) passed away too. So whats new?? I just installed back the headlamp wiper!! Yeah, now almost back to original... Actually, this postings is just to give us some break; and entertainment?! Enjoy the song, from my beloved bird.... :))

VOLVO fly VOLVO....vol240.blogspot.com

Up & Down

2006-06-27T15:19:00.000+08:00

The car is ready for sale, sometime soon. Reading through this blog, you may judge what is our main reason of selling this lovely car. My dad announced that he cannot keep the car anymore; as the mechanic passed away. We just do not trust any other mechanic to 'touch' this car. Rather than seeing it dying, to sell off (preference is to enthusiats) may be a better solution. If anyone felt interestes in this car, just put your price in the comments column.

We have almost all service records from 1989 up until now. From 1989 to 1996, this car was serviced by VOLVO Authorised Service Center, Federal Auto. Then 1996 up to 2006, we send the car to the late Mr KC Ng, ex-Federal Auto man. Service book stamped by service center, and receipts of repair works done is still well kept; for reference.

Water getting inside cabin issues, settled! Odometer fixed! New glove box! Most of bushes changed, new bushes needed for antiroll bar. The engine, and hydraulic pumps are still excellent. May need top-overhaul few thousands later as it never been top-overhauled. Minimal rusts on the body, for perfection respraying will help. Normal wear & tear only; oil seals, gaskets, carburetter adjustments.

So, how much should this car priced??

the emotional part..... :(

2006-05-31T10:35:00.000+08:00

Our regular mechanic, Mr Ng Kok Chai or also known as KC Ng is suffering from liver disease, jaundice; for about 2 months already. He was admitted to Sri Kota Medical Center, then transferred to Subang Jaya Medical Center, and finally now at University Hospital. He got the first alarm when he did his blood test at a clinic, and they found out that his blood got contaminated. He then advised to go to hospital for further clarification. It was at SJMC, where he was confirmed having infections in liver, and he had a weak liver, which make it worse. He told me, the cost for 4 days stay at SJMC was already RM11,000; which is a good reason for him to transfer to UH.

Yesterday, I went to visit him, during my lunch hours. Oh ALLAH!! He is a different man!! His face is so thin, but he is still himself, he still can recognize me, have a normal chit chat, although the pronounciation was not that clear. He had difficulties walking (when he wanted to go to the toilet). His hands shakes vigorously at the moment he want to drink. I was touched, to see a fit and healthy man, turned out to be a weak man. He is only 48 years old, but yesterday he was like a 70 years old man. I wish I can snap some photos, but it might not be a proper thing to do when visiting sick peoples; as if you want to save the 'last' pictures. Then I know, either we have to find out a new good mechanic; which is not easy, or sell the car; which is easier!! Switching to other mechanic after 10 years with him will not be easy.

Another sad part; last Saturday, I went to his workshop for regular oil change. No choice, its due already. His assistant is taking over the business now. For normal service, he can do the job. For major repairs, he also can do the job. But he got experiences, no theoretical knowledge; which i can pretty much say that for diagnostics, he is not the man. He do not have the speciality as Mr KC has. The nice and neat workshop became messy already. KC's neat and nice table, where he reads The Star and write bills, now loaded with parts already. What a sad story. Labor charges also increased, from RM8 to RM10. The 'warmness' is not there anymore.

Anyhow, I still wish him for a speed recovery.

USB in the 240 LIVE!!

2006-05-26T10:43:00.000+08:00

Hi all... Just want to share an information. I have bought an MP3 FM TRANSMITTER, with 2 INPUTS; USB & LINE IN , and 2 OUTPUTS; FM & LINE OUT... Bought it last weekend at Pineapple Computers, TESCO Shah Alam for RM80 (not branded laaa, build quality is cheap one), the unit transmit well, but did not play the song well, the nicely transmitted song jerks, jumps, and scratches. Yesterday I went to the same shop and asked for replacement. Yahoo!!! The replacement unit works fine.

The principle is very simple. The unit got powered from the round 12V power supply output socket (cigarette, on the center dash console). Thus, this unit can be used for all cars (and lorries too??). It came with a small antenna wire, to enhance the transmission. Fortunately, the 240 Pioneer stereo system utilize the stock BOSCH in-cabin antenna. The antenna is a small round shaped, attached to the windscreen. As the antenna and its' wiring is INSIDE the car, I do not need to attach the small antenna provided. And the quality is GREAT!!! Its just like you are listening to a digital radio station like ERA. You can notice the difference between digital and analog radio stations, for example try to compare UFM, SelangorFM, with ERA; you will know.

Now, just plug in a USB pen drive, and the songs come out!!! No more wiring hassles, no need to burn CD and all that. Next target is to get a 1GB small size pen drive, and my music store will be on the roadways :)

This picture illustrate the working principle of the FM transmitter...

My First Hit :)

2006-05-23T14:47:00.000+08:00

Last Friday night, I accidentally hit my neighbour's car. OMG!! I reverse reverse and reverse until I felt that I hit something, but not that hard, just 'soft hit'. I take a glance at my left side mirror, oooOOOooo, I hit my neighbour's Proton Wira rear door!! I am panic!! I went out the car and told him... Fortunately he is a good uncle. He did not blame me or get angry with me, he laugh at me!! And he said "Never mind, never mind, small dent only"... But still thinking of paying him some amount of money although he did not want it. Consequently, I was thinking of reverse sensor for few days, then...'no need laa...' :)

And another story of our regular mechanic, he felt sick for 2 months now. He suffers jaundice, admitted to hospital, and now back to home. Its just he is not ready for work. Waiting and waiting and waiting for his recovery, so that we can happily get him to diagnose all the vibrations problem we had.

wet exhaust....

2006-05-14T09:37:00.000+08:00

survived thunderstorm....

2006-05-07T22:57:00.000+08:00

Thank GOD. Yesterday I parked the car outside the house, in the middle of the road, facing heavy rains with thunderstorm. This morning I checked the carpet. WELL DONE!!! No more pool of water. Just some moisture, I beleive the ones left inside the carpet by previous leakages. I am going to observe for few weeks more before decided to go to the next stage; welding, busting off rusts, and touchup paintings.

fix pixs (cont.)

2006-05-07T22:31:00.000+08:00

i vacuum any dirts and water residue around leakage area first...

and start to apply silicone sealant..of you got the gun type is better!!

use ice-cream stick to spread out the sealant nicely...REMEMBER TO SOAK IN SOAPY WATER FIRST!!!

make sure everything is clean!! please cover up your windscreen first!! see i am struggling to clean up silicone residues from the screen!!

fix pixs...

2006-05-07T22:15:00.000+08:00

see how much water gets in...

after strip off...

the leakage area...

leakage occurs around this damn clip!!

what i used~~

WINDSCREEN HEALED !!

2006-05-02T11:56:00.000+08:00

OK guys, I went to venture the solution myself. As suggested by my dad earlier, we might be able to seal the windscreen with silicone sealant. Last Saturday, this is really an unplanned work!! DO NOT DO UNPLANNED THINGS!! I initially planned to visit my mechanic that morning for long shaft and some brake works, unfortunately he was not feeling well. After finished up house chores, do not know what to do, with itchy hands, I dismantle the windscreen moulding, broke down few clips!! My intention was just to see how the windscreen being attached to the car. It was so simple, the windscreen just 'placed by glue', no holder whatsoever. I am now very confident with my mechanic, it won't break while detachment. Because the windscreen is some sort of floating on a layer of rubber seal and another layer of black epoxy cream. Also note that clips of the moulding are attached on the windscreen!!

I then pour out water from garden hose, got my brother to capture images of leakages. Oh ALLAH!! The leakage was soooo bad. I came to note that the leak area was around a clip. As there was a clip, so I don't think it is wise to seal from outside (mean to seal the clip together?? or seal without clip??). Thus I decided to seal it from inside. I detached the side black plastic pillar cover, stripped off some portion of rubber seals along top of the dash, and have 'clear & comfort' working space. I took a tube of Black RTV Silicone Sealant, ice-cream stick, and some soapy water. I started to patch them up slowly, use the ice-cream stick to spread the silicone evenly and to ensure they are neat. SIGH!! BEFORE YOU TOUCH THE SILICONE SEALANT, PLEASE TIP OFF YOUR HANDS (OR YOUR ICE CREAM STICK) WITH THE SOAPY WATER, THEN IT WON'T STICK ON THE SILICONE.

I have to admit, I am a beginner!! This is my second time handling silicone sealant. The first one is when I tried to seal the side lamp; A COMPLETE FAILURE!! This time, got it better :) Please make sure do not mess up with your windscreen. I mess it up with some silicone residues, it was a hardwork to clean them off!! I suggest you might want to cover your windscreen with maskin tape and plastic bags or newspaper.

And on Monday, I washed the car. Spray back with garden hose to check for leakages. Thanks GOD, it was GOOD!! No more drippings, not a single. However I still can see bubbles. Never mind. Will check it later. Pictures will be posted later, I am too busy lately with so many works :)

2006-04-28T09:33:00.000+08:00

HOW I ADMIRE THIS MACHINE....

2006-04-24T11:00:00.000+08:00

Yeah, finally got the front tyre changed!! The 'soft' Cood Year NCT5 transferred to the rear side. And the all new Silverstone Kruizer take over the steering now. Reason being is; we have been using Silverstone for many years, Silverstone Firefox to be exact. Yeah most mechanics hate Silverstone. Yups, Silverstone produced hard tyres, which are not comfortable on normal roads with potholes. On highways?? It sound terribly, the tyres are loud!! Silverstone Firefox also produced more vibrations and freak sounds as it ages.

That was then the reason for a change to Good Year NCT5, as recommended by most mechanics. Undeniable, with extra cost (Silverstone is cheaper) the NCT5 provide 'comfort mode'. Very soft, shock absorbing tyres, handles potholes very well, also very little noise on highways..BUT it did not handles the car well...especially when I have to take sharp corners. This may be because of the sidewall characteristic. Silverstone have more 'hard' sidewall compared to NCT5. It was so soft to handle potholes, unfortunately cannot handle sharp corners. We made a decision, switch back to Silverstone. To be able to handle sharp corners is more important for us rather than having comfortable tyres.

I always got 'qok qok...quek quek' sound from rear side of the car (fitted with Silverstone Firefox then) in the morning. My mechanic checked all bushes and he said everything is OK. He suspected the Siverstone is the culprit. True enough!! This morning, no more sound!!

The all new Silverstone Kruizer diminished the Firefox, comes out with great features. It comes with Noise Suppression Technology (NST), sinusoidal tread pattern and etc.. It cost me RM165 per tyre (for 185/70/R14).. All in all plus alignment, four wheel balancing, new air valves, it cost me RM371. Looking forward for a cruise and I will update on the tyre's performance.

2006-04-21T11:21:00.000+08:00

This morning, I woke up very early in the morning, around 5.15am if not mistaken. I have to drive my dad to the Malaysia new Low Cost Carrier Terminal, Sepang. This is his very first time travelling with Air Asia, in fact he just have to go to Johor only. He sponsored additional RM50 for petrol; WOW! Thats too much because I just filled up RM30 last evening. It has been a while for the 240 not cruising on highways.

On the way, we discussed the 'windshield leakage' problem. He was very sure that if we try to detach the windshield, it will break!! As the car counts 17 years old this September from the delivery date back in September 1989, we are very sure that the epoxy used to attach the windshield was a super duper one. Even seeing new cars with cracked windshield; when they try to detach fractions on the epoxy, they will just use hammer!! Then you know how hard the epoxy was. So he suggested, why not we try to seal it from outside. Yeah, it is logical, cause if the outer part can be sealed, then no worries anymore. The inner part will not be affected. I will ask shops for this.. And from my readings, research on Google, there are some serious warnings about windshiled works. If in case the windshiled is not properly attached with super duper epoxy, in any event of accident, there are huge potential that the windscreen might fall apart from the car..Thats cool man, it will kill anybody easily!!!

Arrived at LCC Terminal around 7.00am, WOW!! The terminal is great!! Whoever never see planes, you can go there. You can see planes from short distance, even see the take offs and landings. The terminal also great. Got McD and all that. Classy look terminal. Not as bad as what I imagine from stories of Firan and Boy :) For me it is just more than enough for budget airlines usage. CONGRATULATIONS AIR ASIA!!!

2006-04-20T14:58:00.000+08:00

Last Tuesday I rushed home after work hours ended at 5.30pm. I go straight to the car spray workshop, who did respray the exterior of the car back in 1998. I went and explained to him my case; got leakages on windshield seals, got rusted floorboard, also need some touchup. He frankly said he is not 'brave enough' to detach and reseal the windscreen as there are high chance that the windshield will broke (and he really afraid of that). But he said he can do welding works, busting the rusts, and touchup the car.

Touchup some dents, respray bumpers, will roughly costs over RM500. For the rusted floorboard, he insists to strip the carpet first to see how much area was really eaten by the rust; before he can give quotation. Then he made another offer...RM1800 for respray the whole exterior including bumpers + welding works..Thats great!! And the last offer he made was RM3000 for all interior & exterior; and get your color changed!!

After all he insists I go for the windshield repair first before sending the car to him to bust off the rusts. Yup, there is no use if the windshield still leaks, then water will still continue coming in and new rust will be formed...

I will update soon...

2006-04-18T10:11:00.000+08:00

FLOODED!!!

This morning, the car driver's floorboard is really really wet. I cannot imagine what had happened to the floorboard. What I can imagine now is that the noise damper sponge under the carpet will surely started to deterioriated. And sooner or later, if I am not fast enough, the same thing will occur as what happened on driver's side floor board; RUSTED!! I am targetting this week to send the car for whole body restoration. To welding back the floorboard, to seal the windshield tightly (which is the root of this so heavy flood), repair dents and some paint touch-ups... I want to strip off the carpet and see myself with my naked eyes, what had happened to the floorboard after 17 years of service; and of course make necessary repairs if needed. I will update those works soon. Watch out!!

2006-04-11T06:50:00.000+08:00

READ THIS!!

Vehicle Repair Log 2005
Last modified: 16th November 2005
Next Timing Belt Change: 320000km / 2008
Next Service: 263000km
Year: 1989
Make: Volvo
Model: 240 GL
Vehicle ID No. (VIN): YV1244833K5-379045

Date
Description of Work
Shop Name
Mechanic
Notes
Labor Cost
Parts
Cost
Receipt No
Total Cost

07/01/2005
240035km Service, Change; Engine Oil, Oil Filter
KC Ng Auto Service & Repair
Ng
RM87.00
10190
RM87.00

17/01/2005
Change; Coil Spring Hose LHS & RHS
KC Ng Auto Service & Repair
Ng
RM90.00
10206
RM90.00

07/06/2005
252075km Service, Change; Engine Oil, Oil Filter, Plugs, 4pcs Brake Pads, 1pc LHS Ball Joint, 1pc LHS Caliper Pin
KC Ng Auto Service & Repair
Ng
All bushes inspected and OK, Center long-shaft mounting found faulty but still can use, All suspension and undercarriage bolts retightened, Hot-start problem solved by adjusting carburetter & choke setting (engine tuned)
RM130.00
RM479.00
10445
RM609.00

20/07/2005
Readjusted Front Wheel Bearings, Change; Long Shaft Rubber Mounting
KC Ng Auto Service & Repair
Ng
He installed the new rubber, there comes a very little vibration from the long shaft when in 30-40 km/h - Readjusted wheel bearings solve squeaks and uneasy handling
RM60.00
RM80.00
10568
RM140.00

22/07/2005
Change; 2pcs Good Year NCT5 tyres + 2pcs Valve + Alignment + Balancing
KYM Power Speed
Veteran Mech Biasa
Change front tyres, RHS old tyre replace spare tyre, did alignment & four wheel balancing
RM34.00
RM360.00
16738
RM394.00

27/07/2005
Change; Spark Plug Cables 5pcs HOTSHOT Australian Made (YELLOW)
Batu Gajah Spare Part
Ahmad Zhafri
Changed 4 cables, the coil cable are different
RM0.00
RM25.00
RM25.00

14/09/2005
257075km Service, Change; Engine Oil, Oil Filter, 1pc AC Fuel Pump+Gaskets(Pierburg Original)
KC Ng Auto Service & Repair
Ng
Changed AC Fuel Pump (RM275) due to excessive leakage, Carburetter's diaphragm said to have some leaks, Ng retighten/adjusted diaphragm and carburetter fittings
RM40.00
RM275.00
RM390.00

01/10/2005
Change; Pneumatic Vacuum Hose + 1 set Bosch W7DC Plugs + Pioneer Stereo 6A Fuse
Pneumatic Shop Jln Bendahara + Ecco Trading Ipoh + Hardware Shop Sect18
Ahmad Zhafri
Tangan gatal, pergi bukak plugs, then one plug jatuh, damn!! That plug broke (air gap melekat) / On the way balik SA, suddenly Pioneer on off intermittenly and dies off, found out that connection of 6A Fuse underneath carpet get corroded, the fuse itself broken
RM0.00
RM20.50
RM20.50

2x/12/2005
Change; OEM Pickup Timing Sensor
KC Ng Auto Service & Repair
Ng
Insulation of the faulty unit exposed, less pickup, notice very good pickup after change
RM20.00
RM190.00
RM210.00

Year End Tolerance (left some behind such as aircond blower motor replacement, forgot how much)
RM300.00

Total repair expenses:
RM2,265.50

-----------> people always ask me; 'doesn't it is expensive to maintain this car??' above is DATALOG for my service record for year 2005. Read the datalog and do your own judgement, because to say it is expensive or no is abstract. Some people find the price is affordable, others may find it was expensive and another level of people may find it cheap fro exactly the same price. Ponder upon this. All in all we have spent around RM2265.50 last year on the car, including changing tyres; which make the figures up. You might want to read it slowly to understand how the DATALOG being arranged :)

2006-03-30T12:23:00.000+08:00

Da Pixs!!

Upon request, I uploaded some of the pictures of the 240. Yeah!! This is how beautiful my dad's sweet heart. Remember the first Monday I took this car from him; he called me very early in the morning, "Assalamualaikum, hi, how are you?? Everything is fine?? I am driving, on the way to office, just call to say HI".....I started to think why he act weirdly, he never called me before. Then he continued the conversation, "The car (VOLVO) is OK?? No problem??"....wahahaha...now I got it, he called me because he missed the car; for a week he keep updating on the car in the morning. Then for months he keep asking about the car now and then. Come, enjoy what my dad enjoys.

This picture taken on 2003. Nothing changed except for steering, now have to put on plain black steering cover. The original steering started to crack, hot!!

The engine bay. Also took on 2003. Some changes occured. Have changed new plug wires to OEM Bougicord (RM150 for 6 wires) and the expansion tank (RM120 ORIGINAL).

This is latest engine bay picture during recent aircond service. With new black plug wires, new plug wires holder (RM7). New battery, AAM with free delivery on Hari Raya Aidil Adha (RM160).

Posing outside the house :)

Suffering from the high petrol price!! No just kidding, this picture taken just after it got started. Add 100,000km to the one you read on board. I managed to repair the ODOMETER only after 5 years of disfunction. So promotion, anyone have ODOMETER problem just contact me, I may guide you. Regret I did not take any pictures when I got them fixed.

[CLICK TO SEE LARGER PICTURE]

2006-03-29T11:22:00.000+08:00

Extracted from REUTERS

By Stephanie Nebehay

GENEVA (Reuters) - IKEA founder Ingvar Kamprad, ranked 4th richest man in the world, drives a 15-year-old car and always flies economy class, in part to inspire his 90,000 employees worldwide to see the virtue of frugality.

The billionaire Swede, who turns 80 on March 30, explained his legendary habits during a rare television interview in Switzerland, his adoptive home for nearly 30 years.

His fortune was recently estimated at $28 billion by Forbes magazine -- trailing only Microsoft co-founder Bill Gates, U.S. investor Warren Buffett and Mexican industrialist Carlos Slim.

"People say I am cheap and I don't mind if they do. But I am very proud to follow the rules of our company," Kamprad told French-language Swiss Broadcasting Corporation.
Asked to confirm he drove an old Volvo, he said: "She is nearly new, just 15 years old, or something like that."

Interviewer Darius Rochebin teased that Ikea employees were always told to write on both sides of the paper.

"Why not? If there is such a thing as good leadership, it is to give a good example. I have to do so for all the Ikea employees," Kamprad retorted. "Everything we earn we need as a reserve. We have to still develop the IKEA group. We need many billions of Swiss francs (dollars) to take on China or Russia," he added.

Ikea is the world's biggest furniture retailer, with 202 stores in 32 countries.
Known for its inexpensive self-assembly furniture, the family-owned business claims its hefty catalog is the most widely read publication after the Bible.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I searched the Googles and good to know he rides on 240!!!

2006-03-28T17:08:00.000+08:00

MY LAST WEEK FUEL CONSUMPTION...

This is my fuel consumption, recorded last week. This might not be accurate because I just took it once, should repeat few times and take average. But its OK, just for rough idea.

I filled in with ESSO brand petrol, alongside Federal Highway Shah Alam;

Initial odometer reading : 264587km
Final odometer reading : 264667km
Distance travelled : 80km

I filled up RM20, with current petrol price RM1.92 per litre;

RM1.92 = 1 litre
RM20 = 10.416667 litre

Therefore my km/l will be;

10.46667 litre = 80km
1 litre = 7.68km
thus, 7.68km/l

My cent/km;

80km = RM20
1km = RM0.25
thus, RM0.25/km

These readings obtained from 'light footed' style of driving, morning, evening, and night drive, mostly in jams and slow traffic (going to and back from work). Seldom touch 110km/h or 3000rpm, mostly 2500rpm and below. I think it is OK. No need to worry :)

2006-03-27T10:28:00.000+08:00

When it get wet.... for years, we suffer from water pouring off from the aircond linkages behind the center dash; again FOR YEARS!! I tried so many air-cond shops, and their answers are; "your air-cond is just too cold", thats why the hoses condensate, maybe. Until one last visit to Ah Ming, Sri Muda (tribute to him) recently, he adviced for complete servicing and cleaning of the cooling coil, and also the a/c drain hose.

Initially I am a bit worried of his capability; is he familiar enough with VOLVOs as they deal mostly with local and Japan made cars. And throughout the work, I know he can do it, he know his stuffs well. Upon dismantle the cooling coil, you can expect a problem from a bunch of wires that located just next to the coil. This is quite a challenge, to slowly bring out the cooling coil, without damaging the wires; and this took most of the time!!

Upon cleaning and all that, everything was fine, no leakages nor clogs. Everything assembled properly back. He checked the drain hose, yeah got crack on the nipple that goes to the chassis. He took one straight hose, tape it together; a creative work. AND NO MORE WATER!!!

After few weeks, I noticed water started to come back. Know what?? I took out the rubber mats, replace with newspaper only. Then I can clearly see where is the water came from. I am surprised!! My windscreen!! It leaks!! For both sides!! For driver's and passenger's side :(

What more?? It RUSTING THE FLOOR BOARD!! OMG.... speechless when I saw the rust under the car. Yeah, thats mean a big project is on the way!!! Next tough job is to 'seal' everything in the car, make it totally DRY is my next mission.

2006-03-27T10:06:00.000+08:00

How do I celebrate life; for 3 years NOW!!

Here comes a story of me, myself. I have low back pain problems for years. I was diagnosed with prolapsed disc on L5 and S1 (for those who have spine problems will surely understand L5 and S1). As this is not a medical class, so no explanation on spine itself :). Find it from Google, easy.

I have difficult time driving on my dad's car, my back will start to complain every time I drive the car. Wonderful enough, I found that 240's seat is very comfortable and supportive. Sometimes, I even jump into the car when my back hurts. And it healed!!

During weekends, after morning prayer, I love to sit down on the seat, sometimes even got slept on it; soundly. Then I started my research on 240 seats, why they can suit me while others can't. I found out that during the design process, VOLVO man and medical practitioners worked together for the seat; or for me!! Enjoy the seat :)

2006-03-26T21:36:00.000+08:00

LAMAN WEB VOLVO MALAYSIA dengan ini ditutup dengan rasminya. Implementasinya nampak kurang praktikal lagi buat masa ini. Saya mengambil keputusan menggantikannya dengan cara blog, blog pengalaman sebenar sendiri. Atas kelemahan saya mengemaskini LWVM, adalah lebih baik jika blog digunakan. Saya cadangkan tuan-tuan menyertai VOLVO OWNERS CLUB MALAYSIA (VOCM) untuk menyatukan pengguna VOLVO di Malaysia.

Please be informed that LAMAN WEB VOLVO MALAYSIA will be off from now on. I came to a more practical way of giving out infos on VOLVO, especially 240 which I am interested on. The e-group is still ON. I would like to suggest that we used the VOLVO OWNERS CLUB MALAYSIA (VOCM) platform to discuss and find answers. Its great to continue LAMAN WEB VOLVO MALAYSIA through blogging.

Lawat VOCM : http://www.vocm.com.my